Diary: August

Click here for the photos.

Sunday 30^th July
Yaniklar

Spent nearly all day on the computer updating the diary and doing the write-up on the sea turtle project. 
Some of Austrian guys are in the process of rebuilding a dingy they’ve found, and are constantly asking if I’ve got certain tools they can borrow.

Had a snooze and a swim in the afternoon. All of the Austrians except Julia had gone to Pataras beach for the day. So it was quiet. I had tea in the campsite restaurant with Julia, and we started playing “Pass the Pigs” or “Schweiner Kopf” as Julia preferred to call it.

Spent an hour or so on the beach stargazing, before heading of to bed.

Note:- The campsite is divided in two by a barbed wire fence. It was once one site run by two brothers, but they had a big argument one day, and up went the fence overnight, Just like the Berlin Wall. Now they just spend all day glowering at each other across the fence. Very sad really.

Monday 31^st July
Yaniklar

Serviced the Land Rover. Then went into Fethiye with one of the Austrian guys (Robert) and did some E-Mailing and a spot of shopping. Invited to lunch with Austrians.

The owner of our side of the campsite had spotted that his brother had thrown a party for the Turkish students last night, so tonight we were treated to a beach party.  A Meal on the beach, followed by Turkish dancing around the fire. Great Evening.

I taught to Austrian guys how to play the “Spot Game” . Needless to say I remained blemish free, but Robert looked like he had a bad case of measles by the end of the night.

Tuesday 1^st August
Yaniklar

Not feeling on top of the world! Swam, had  breakfast and snoozed in Hammock till midday.. Have made friends with the campsite dog “Chico”. She’s a Staffordshire Bull terrier, I Think (See Photo) but as soft as a pudding.

One of the Austrians found a large beetle, so everything stopped while it was examined and photographed. These crazy Austrians Biologists are constantly trying to out do each other with the strange animals and insects they find. I must leave soon, before one of them wanders into the site with something a bit more sinister!

Wednesday 2^nd August
Yaniklar

Took Meinhart, Andy and his girlfriend into Fethiye. The guys were looking for a blacksmith to make an anchor for their boat. I left them at a local Smithy and went off to do some posting and E-Mailing.

They got their Anchor made, cracking job but they had to haggle the price down from 5 to 3 pounds.

Today is the Birthday of the campsite owner (Austrian side of camp) so it’s party time again this evening. Finished evening drinking whisky. I hate the stuff but didn’t want to offend the birthday boy so I struggled on.

Thursday 3^rd August
Yaniklar

I originally planned on spending only one night here, but it’s been nearly a week now. The Austrians keep finding reasons for me to stay just one more day. Tomorrow it’s a “gullet “ trip (boat). I think it’s just a ploy so they can use my tool kit for boat building. Cooked a Risoto for tea and had some stuffed vine leaves and peppers that the Austrians had made for me.

Caught up with news on the world service, only today that I’ve heard about the Concorde crash in Paris.

There was another party this evening, but I gave it a miss. Needed an early night.

Friday 4^th August
Fethiye

Caught a dolmus (minbus) into Fethiye for the boat trip. Really great day. Scenery, Swimming / Snorkeling, Cliff diving,  the works. We had 7 hours on the boat with lunch included for 3 quid each!

After the trip, Julia and Robert and I decided to go for a meal in Fethiye. We had a pide (Turkish Pizza) at a restaurant in the market. When I asked for a beer the waiter said I would have to have a special beer. I wondered what he meant, but all was revealed when my beer arrived in one of those cardboard coke cups. Because the place was overlooked by a mosque they didn’t want you to be seen drinking alcohol in view of the mosque. Quite an amusing work around I thought.

Got back to the camp to find the other Austrians where having a session on punch. I contributed a bottle of  Raki and joined them. Without asking they put my name down on the list for a volley ball tournament they were organising the next day. Definitely time to go, I’ve got a tab at the camp shop as well!

Saturday 5h August
Fethiye-Kas

Had farewell breakfast with the Austrians. I bought one of their SOS turtle T-Shirts, and Mona gave me one of their special “project worker” T-Shirts as well. Very honoured.

First stop Fethiye to do some E-Mailing. A friend has shown an interest in joining me for a couple of months, so had to send them some info. I met Mienhart and Andy in town, (will I ever get away from these guys?) I gave them a lift to an Ironmongers, (they were struggling for tools now that I had left!) and finally left them at a scrap yard searching for boat parts. They’ve promised to send me a photo of the boat when it’s finished which I’ll post it on the site if they do.

It was gone 2:00 pm by the time I left Fethiye so I only made it as far as Kas, but it was a stunning drive. Huge mountains, and Islands off the coast.

Also took a very quick stop in Kale. This is the home of Father Christmas (St Nicholas) - there is a huge double archway across the road through town, with a sign proclaiming Kale’s fame as the home of Santa. (See Photos)

That night at the campsite I watched the locals playing a game where you had to throw stones at a stick with money balanced on it. You got to keep the coins which landed heads up, if you hit the stick. You could also kill an opponent by hitting his stone. Didn’t  fully understand it.

Sunday 6^th August
Kas-Olympus-Antalya-Side

Stopped at Olympus, but was told it was a 18 km walk to the Chimera (Flames) so set off again. Later found it is only 4kms. Bloody pissed off!

Those of you who may be plotting my progress on a map will now notice that I do a lot of to-ing and fro-ing. Vehicle servicing and a lack of decision on my part are the main causes of this. Bear with me.

I went on through Antalya to Side, which someone had recommended to me. Apart from the ruins, which were  not a patch on Ephesus the place was another Bodrum. (Too Touristy for me)

There was only campsite in town, and that was in the grounds of a hotel. The Hotel was virtually exclusively German. All the prices were in Deutche Marks, and it was expensive.

Met a Polish guy going to Syria for some diving, exchanged E-Mail addresses and said we may meet up further down the road.

I found a “fold up” picnic table the same as mine abandoned in the campsite washroom. I spent 2 hours stripping it for spares.

Monday 7^th August
Side-Antalya

Went into Side to find Internet Café to mail my diary to Martin. (forgot to include it on Floppy Discs -last July entries)

I then went into Antalya to find the local Land Rover agent. Maggie needed an oil change etc. and I wanted to get the front shocks checked out - they were making bad noises!

On the way I hit a very deep pothole. I was tempted to try and avoid, but I’ve drilled it into my head now:- “DON’T SWERVE FOR ANYTHING”.  It obviously loosened the steering linkage, because when I went over any bumpy surface the wheel would dance around in my hands. It was just as well I was heading to the garage.

They sorted out the steering problem straight away, but the rattling noise was a different matter. I went for a test drive with the Chief mechanic, he agreed with me: shock absorber  problem. But closer inspection showed they were fine. We then spent 2 hours test driving and tightening up every nut and bolt, but to no avail. I could see this was really infuriating the mechanic, but to his credit he refused to be beaten.

Quite by chance I noticed that the springs that hold the retaining pins on the front brake pads were shot and the pins were rattling, but nothing like the sound we could hear. In desperation we replaced the springs. Yes, you’ve got it no more rattling. At first we couldn’t understand how these tiny pins were making such a loud “Clunking” sound, but we think the bowl shape of the back of the wheel was acting as an amplifier.

It was past 6:00 pm when I left, so I camped the night behind a nearby petrol station. Most off the big petrol stations in Turkey have an area for caravans and tents, and shower facilities. I think you get free camping if you use their restaurant, as I wasn’t charged that night.

Tuesday 8^th August
Antaliya-Aspendos-Perge-Olympus

Put on my Archaeologist hat for the day. Went to Aspendos to see the Amphitheatre. It’s the best example of a Roman Amphitheatre in Asia minor, or so the sign said. I must admit it was in a better condition than the one in Ephesus, though not as big. I bought a post card with an Arial view of the site, I know my photos wont do it justice.

I trundled down the road to Perge. I paid the two pounds fifty entrance fee which was a mistake, I later discovered the site isn’t enclosed, you can walk in from anywhere, and the ticket was the same as the one for Aspendos.

Scale of the site is vast: bigger than Ephesus I think. Most impressive was the main street, which has a large waterfall style fountain at one end, and a large channel running down the centre of the street. It is said that the flow of water helped cool the street.

It was bloody hot and I had left my hat in the car, so I called it a day after 3 hours. You could really spend 2-3 days exploring the place, and still not see it all.

I decided to go back to Olympus, and see the Chimera. On the way I noticed some signs for a concert to be held shortly, and the main attraction, Turkeys latest pop star:- “Mustafa Sandal”( I jest ye not!)

I found a backpackers pension at Olympus called “Bayram’s Place” They let me camp there for free and use all the facilities (showers etc) as long as I ate there. It was only two quid and the food was great. Accommodation is in tree huts. Highly recommended stop over for anyone heading this way. E-Mail:- Bayrams1@turk.net  

Got involved in a Raki session with 2 English guys who have been teaching English in Istanbul. Eventually got to bed at 4.00am.

Wednesday 9^th August
Olympus

Got up at 8 o’clock for breakfast. Don’t know how as I was feeling awful. I spent nearly all day updating the diary on the computer. I took advantage of the book exchange to get some new reading material, pretty slim pickings, but when I’m desperate I’ll read just about anything.

I was going to walk to the flames (Chimera) but it was still 8 km for that. We set off at 9 p.m. for a 45 min drive to the base of mount Olympus, then it was still a 25 min walk up the hill to the flames. I was a little disappointed, but I couldn’t come all this way and miss it.

Got back to Bayram’s at midnight. I had one beer with a Aussie couple Craig & Selina. Craig is a budding rock star and had just released his first album before leaving Australia. For those interested the bands called “The Government” and the album is entitled, wait for it: I like this:- “Underwater themes for an over rated film” and it’s released on the Comrade label. End of Plug.

Thursday 10^th August
Olympus – Egirdir

Set off for Egirdir at 11.00am. Back to Antaliya again! I’m getting to know my way through the city pretty well now. The road to Egidir was deserted and made for a pleasant drive through the mountains. I got to Egirdir at 3.00 pm. I found a pension I had been recommended by Bayram’s. I camped right by the waters edge and got to use all their facilities for free. I’m getting rather keen on this arrangement as I get a good, cheap meal and the showers and facilities are always spotless.

Went in to town to find a barber and an E-Mail Cafe. Barber wasn’t quite as good as the first one, no neck and shoulder massage, but it was half the price.

I met Mike a German guy at the E-Mail Cafe. He was traveling to India and was staying at the pension. The two of us went off for a few beers after our meal. Mike’s going to Cappadocia as well so I’ve offered him a lift.

Friday 11^tt August
Egirdir – Konya – Goreme

Mike and I had breakfast at the “Lale Pansion” and left for Cappadocia at about 9 o’clock. We stopped several times to take photos. Mike is a very keen photographer and has offered to give me some instructions. We were invited for lunch with a Farmer and his Family at one off our Photo Shoots. We gracefully declined, as we knew it was still a long drive to Cappadocia. We were sent off with a small packed lunch instead. Turkish Hospitality is fantastic.

We also stopped at Sultanhani which has one of the biggest and best preserved “caravansarey” (a stopping point for the camel trains on the old silk road) in Turkey.

The road from Konya to Cappadocia was very boring, the long straight type! And the scenery, well there wasn’t any really, just a sort of semi desert.

We tried a few pensions when we arrived in Goreme, and settled on the Backpackers cave pension. You get to sleep in man made caves carved in the rock. Really Cool! Cheap too - three quid a night

Mike and I went off to take some photos as the sun was setting. Cappadocia is an amazing place. It’s like a moonscape. For those of you who’ve never heard about it a brief intro:-

”As a result of prehistoric volcanic eruptions the countryside was covered in a thick layer of volcanic ash which eventually became a soft porous rock, called “tufa”. Over thousands of centuries the soft tufa was eroded by wind and water into valleys gorges of weird rock formations. The softness of the rock suited it ideally to carving out cave dwellings, and when hostile invaders crossed Cappadocia, the Cappadocians used the environment to their advantage and literally went underground, carving out multi-story cities and venturing out only for essentials and to tend their fields”.

Saturday 12^th August
Cappadocia

Off to one of the underground cities first for a look around. The one we chose was 8 levels deep. I tagged along behind a group of Americans and got a free guided tour. We saw the living areas, stables (yes they kept their animals below ground too), the ventilation shaft 100 meters deep, wine cellars, the “millstones” doors they used to seal off different levels in case of attack and also a church. It really was an engrossing place, and I could have spent all day exploring little nooks and crannies.

The advantage of having your own vehicle here can’t be stressed enough. We got away from the main tourist hot-spots and found some wonderful caves off the beaten track. A good pair of walking boots is also a must for scrambling around the caves.

Mike and I did another sunset photo shoot before heading into town for a Pide and a few beers.

Sunday 13^th August
Cappadocia

Another day of exploring old caves and churches, some with beautifully painted walls and ceilings.

Cappadocia It’s not a place I can describe easily. It’s one of those unique places you have to see yourself to appreciate.

PS: YOU PROBABLY WONT HEAR FROM ME FOR 3-4 WEEKS AS I’M TOLD THERE’S VERY LITTLE INTERNET CONNECTIONS IN SYRIA.