Diary: December
Friday
1st December
Port Elizabeth
A day at St Georges watching the cricket and “people watching” I
thoroughly enjoyed myself, as it seems did everyone else.
We ate at a “Dros” restaurant that evening, and it was dros! I ordered
a pasta dish, but the pasta was in short supply. It was 90% cheese! I
nearly choked as I tried to swallow the first mouthful. In fairness they
agreed it was not right and I got a pizza as a replacement.
Met Dolf (Adolf) a South African in the bar of the backpackers. He was
doing his advanced diving course in P.E. It turns out that he did his
basic diving course at “Dive Zone” in Dahab and spent his evenings
studying at “Friends” restaurant. Small world eh!
Saturday 2nd December
Port Elizabeth
I wanted some camping gear (lights etc) so we spent most of the morning
touring some more of South Africa’s shopping malls.
It was time for the big match (England v South Africa). Found a bar on the
waterfront and settled down in front of the TV. We got a few strange looks
as we cheered our team on, but I didn’t give a s**t. One guy came
scampering over to us asking
“You
two English?”
“Yup”
“Phew,
thought I was alone”
He sat with us and cheered on a fine English victory. We managed to walk
out alive and very happy.
You
should have seen and heard the press over the next couple of days. It
seems every possible reason for their loss was examined, apart that is
from the fact that they’d been beaten by a better team. Apart from one
caller to a radio station no one would acknowledge that England were the
better team, and he was cut off anyway. And we’re supposed to be the
“Whinging Poms” I don’t know!
Sunday 3rd December
Port Elizabeth – Knysna
Headed back westwards again, taking in some sights:- storms river valley,
“The Big Tree” (which wasn’t so impressive!) and natures valley
where we stopped for lunch and got the other extreme of S.A. service.
Would have walked out, but it was the only restaurant in town.
Time to have a proper look at Knysna. The town is on the banks of a lagoon
which is fed from the Knysna river to the north. “The heads” two
imposing sandstone headlands lead out to the sea. It’s a beautiful
setting, especially the heads were the sea is fighting to get into the
lagoon. We watched a few boats attempting to run the swell out to sea, all
beat a hasty retreat to the shelter of the lagoon.
Monday 4th December
Knysna – Stellenbosch
Took another walk around the heads before breakfast at a lovely café on
one of the headlands.
Into the town for Bill to cash some T.C’s. I took a wander around town.
I spotted a bronze pipe in one curio stall, it wasn’t as well made as
the one in Addis Ababa, but more reasonable at US$45. I gave it a miss,
too heavy to lug around!
Checked out some vintage cars in a garage. There was a beautiful MGA in
concourse condition, and at £7,000 I was half tempted to get the cheque
book out! Bill had spotted a nice Mercedes, and as we drove off the
conversation revolved around shipping and import costs back to the UK. A
nice dream!
Arrived in Stellenbosch at 4 o’clock. Camping wasn’t easy to find, it
was gone 7 o’clock by the time we pitched up at a site 10km’s out of
town.
Another Italian meal in a very posh restaurant. It wasn’t cheap, but the
views over the vineyards and table mountain more than compensated.
Tuesday 5th December
Stellenbosch – Cape Town
Went into town for breakfast. While we were flipping through the local
papers Bill spotted an advert for a car designer in Cape Town. I tore it
out, may give them a call in a day or two, more out of curiosity than a
burning desire to start working again!
Time to try some of the local vino. I’d studied the tourist information
leaflets on the vineyards. They all seemed much of a much ness to me,
after much deliberation we opted for the
Nethlingshof vineyard, more for the wonderful avenue of trees that
lined the driveway up to the estate, than anything to do with the wine.
The wine tasting was good fun, and I was pretty sloshed at the end of it.
Bill’s not a wine drinker, so I had some of his share, and I wasn’t
going to spit any out. Waste not want not!
I bought six bottles and we headed of to the café for a strong coffee to
bring me round a bit.
On the way back into Cape Town we stopped at a camping store. Bill wants a
mattress (soft git!). We also found a great 4X4 outfitters, it was shut,
but I’ll return another day.
It’s local elections day. In an attempt to improve the turn out
they’ve made it a public holiday. It doesn’t seem to have worked, the
roads are “Choka” everyone’s heading to the beach not the polling
stations!
After three hours of searching for campsites on the cape peninsula we gave
in and headed back to town. We ended up in the front garden of another
backpackers hostel (Brown Sugar).
There was more grass floating around the bar than under our tent, but it
was a much nicer venue than “Ashanti”
Tuna Salad at a waterfront restaurant followed by a few beers back in the
bar watching Arsenal play Bayern Munich.
Six people had been killed in election day violence. How can you claim to
have a democracy when most of the population are too scared to vote.
Wednesday 6th December
Cape Town
Maggie arrived on the 1st, but I can’t get her out without Mike and
Peggy. Maggie’s at the back of the container! I spent all morning on the
phone organising clearance and insurance.
A trip to another shopping mall. We took in a movie, “The Watcher”. It
was a bit O.T.T. but good entertainment.
When we got back to Brown Sugar Bill went of for some provisions. On his
way back a hooker asked him “Will sir be joining us tonight?” Nice
approach I thought!
Mike and Peggy called at 6 o’clock. They were just outside town. We
spent the evening catching up on gossip, then Bill and I went for a Pizza.
Sannelie called and I arranged to drop off some stuff with her parents in
Outshoorn. We’re carrying far too many souvenirs. I’m going to freight
them back in the new year.
Thursday 7th December
Dropped off Mike and Peggy’s hire car, then off to see the clearance
agent. It’s going to cost me £370 to get Maggie back! £40 of that is
because we’ve had to pay for late collection (overstay charges). I was
tempted to ask Mike and Peggy to pay mine, but I didn’t want to sour
things before we parted company.
Met Bill at the waterfront, where I used every ATM in sight to get the
money for Maggie.
We left Mike and Peggy at the waterfront and headed into town. I needed to
do a bit of E-Mailing and Bill’s still hunting for Christmas presents.
Supper at the waterfront again. The food was excellent, but the service
was again completely over the top.
Friday 8th December
Cape Town
Getting Maggie back. It took just 1 ½ hours from the time we entered the
port to clear the paper work, unpack the vehicles and get on our way. Our
container was crunched by the forklift driver on the way to us, but both
vehicles were fine. A British registered Ferrari
was also being unloaded at the same time, “Nice Mota”
Off to sort out some insurance. It took me three hours because the company
wouldn’t accept credit cards. I had to go to the bank to transfer money
into their account. Bloody slow!
Maggie’s going fine, but I’m sure she’s got a few surprises in store
for me somewhere!
Took Mike and Peggy to Nelson’s Eye restaurant for a farewell meal. It
was just as good the second time round.
Back at Brown Sugar we said our goodbyes. Mike and Peggy were having a
“lie in” and wouldn’t be up to see us go. No change there then!
Saturday 9th December
Cape Town – George
We were packed and rolling by 9 o’clock. It was a long days drive to
George, a strong headwind didn’t help. Found a campsite just outside
town, and went off to get some provisions. All the supermarkets had shut
at 3 o’clock. It would be beans on toast tonight.
Maggie did have a surprise waiting for me. The Aux battery wasn’t
charging again! Half an hour with the multimeter and I had it sorted. One
of the relay connections had burned through. I may have shorted it out
when reconnecting the battery in Cape Town.
Put the tent back on the roof, then sorted out the stuff we would be
leaving with Sannelie’s parents.
Nice to have Maggie back again, and be sleeping on the roof again.
Sunday 10th December
Stopped off in Outshoorn to meet Sannelie’s parents. Wonderful
hospitality. It was greatly appreciated.
Outshoorn is in the middle of Ostrich farming country. Egg stalls were
plentiful and Ostrich feather dusters were the hawker’s speciality.
After some food, sausage rolls and some wonderful fresh fruit Sannelie’s
parents took us to Kango Caves. We did a one hour tour of the caves with
our guide Martin (aka Lloyd Grossman) The caves were superb. I’d done a
lot of caving in South Wales, but never seen formations like the ones
here. They were immense. I’ve taken some photos, but the lighting
doesn’t do them justice.
Sannelie’s parents then pointed us in the direction of the Swartberg
pass, Wow! What a drive. The road over the Swartberg Mountains had been
constructed by pioneers years ago. What a feat of engineering. The view
was spectacular. We stopped several times for photos, and to just take it
all in.
We
found a campsite in Beaufort West just in time to watch the next rugby
installment. Barbarians v South Africa. Shame the Barbarians ran out of
steam in the second half.
Went into town for KFC. Not a pleasant experience, I’d forgot how much
the blacks like a good drink on Sunday nights.
Monday 11th December
Beaufort West – Bethlehem
A very long days drive through the Karoo, it was raining which didn’t
help. Camped at a site in Bethlehem. It was peak tourist season, but the
site was deserted
Ham and Tomato pasta, and an early night.
Tuesday 12th December
Bethlehem – Bergville
Breakfast at a “Spur” restaurant in Bethlehem, than off to find a
garage to do Maggie’s oil change and tighten up the power steering belt.
Why didn’t I do it myself? Disposing of the old oil is not easy, and at
£12 including oil and filter I couldn’t really go wrong. There was a
nice MKII Jag in the corner of the workshop. They wanted £2,500 for it,
tempted!
Our first view of the Drakensberg was spoiled a bit by the low cloud, but
it still didn’t fail to impress.
Went into Bergville for provisions and to check out the tourist
information. They recommended we stay at “Hialanthi” campsite. It was
very nice, had a golf course, but was a little too packed for my liking.
However they did have a “Windhoek” beer promotion on in the bar that
evening. As it was raining what else was there to do?
Invited to play golf in the morning, and do a spot of “Tubing” on the
river. Sounds fun after all the rain, but I’m a fair weather golfer.
Wednesday 13th December
Drakensberg
Maggie needed a spring clean, and some of the food had been contaminated
with Diesel. Bill threw the food in the bin, but the campsite staff wasted
no time in liberating it. He told them it was no good, but I don’t think
they care. They’ll probably sell it on anyway.
The main reason for visiting the Drakensberg was to see “The
Amphitheatre”. The low cloud meant any sightseeing would be a waste of
time.
We went looking for a 4X4 trail to amuse us for the day, but the first one
I called had shut down a year ago, and the next one we went to at
Cathedral Peak Hotel was also no longer open. We made do with a drive up
“Mike’s Pass”, the highest road open to the public. It was a “jaw
dropping” drive, not in severity ( a VW golf was also at the top) but
the views down the steeply wooded valleys were tremendous.
We met some park rangers on horse back on the way up. They were “tooled
up” to start world war three.
At the top we had a cup of tea, sat on Maggies roof, and “soaked” it
all in. It was wonderful, and as Bill said “One of those moments I’ll
look back on knowing I don’t have a care in the world”
We moved out of “Hialanthi” campsite and went looking for a mountain
camp further along the road. We met the Campsite owner who guided us up a
deeply rutted track. I had to sit on the roof. The campsite was wonderful,
high in the mountains.
Bill cooked a cottage pie, which was excellent, and we spent the evening
sat around the fire, chatting to
two Dutch girls.
I’d had some bad news during the day. An old friend of mine, my golf
partner had died of a stroke 2 weeks ago. (Thanks Alan and Bunnie, not
easy being the bringer of such bad news)
A few quiet G&T’s by the fire, and bed
Thursday 14th December
Drakensberg
Clear skies! We jumped in the truck and set of to Sentinel Peak.
Apparently this was the best viewpoint of the “Amphitheatre”. By the
time we arrived the cloud base had descended. My fears were confirmed when
the park’s ranger said we’d be wasting our time doing the 1 ½ hour
walk to the view point. I think I’m not destined to see the
“Amphitheatre” Even so the drive to Sentinel peak was very enjoyable.
Maggie’s developed another rattle! 2 mins scrambling around underneath
revealed the problem, the brake shield was loose.
Went for a walk to find a rock carving the campsite owner had told me
about. I found it after a while. The Sculptor was obviously a breast man,
they were huge! No, I didn’t have a quick “grope” That would’ve
been indecent.
Met up with Bill and we spent an hour or so splashing around in the
mountain stream, Brrrr!
The sky was darkening and we could hear the “Draken” rumbling. Our
evening’s braai looked unlikely. Sure enough we had to abandon it and
made do with a Pizza at the nearby “Leaning Tower of Pizza”
We hit a young falcon on the way back to the campsite. The lights must
have dazzled it, and it flew straight into the windscreen. Its wing was
broken and it was obviously on deaths door. I was about to “dispatch”
it with the wheel wrench when thank goodness it passed away.
Friday 15th December
Drakensberg – Kruger
Another long day “In the saddle.” We arrived at the Kruger park gates (Melane
gate) at 5 o’clock. I was immediately impressed with the system of a one
off entrance fee, then “pay as you go” for camping. It’s so much
more flexible. I also bought a tourist map, which was superbly illustrated
and very informative.
We set up camp at Berg-en-Dal. The facilities were the best to date.
Scalding showers/baths, loo roll and braai pits at every pitch.
We braaied at last!
Saturday 16th December
Berg-en-Dal – Pretoriuskop
Trundled around the park looking for game. Spotted a few Giraffe, then
Bill went “ballistic.” Two huge bull elephants had walked right across
our path. Before I could say a word Bill was on the roof getting that
“Kodak” moment.
The rest of the day was a bit of an anticlimax. Saw a few zebra and some
more giraffe.
Set up camp at Pretoriuskop for the evening. I made a chilli con carne
while Bill fought of the kids at the swimming pool.
Sunday 17th December
Pretoriuskop – Lower Sabie
I don’t think game viewing is Bill’s forte. He’s of the opinion
“Unless it walks out in front of you, you won’t see it” I must agree
it hasn’t been easy, but then again it’s the wrong time off year.
There’s too much vegetation and water is plentiful.
Stopped off at Mlondozi dam where we saw a few Hippo and an elephant
crossing the river.
Bill did the Braai while I caught up with world events on the BBC. Glad to
hear the US has a president at last! I was in Cairo when the “farce”
started.
It was very hot, so we abandoned the tent and slept on the roof.
Monday 18th December
Lower Sabie – Berg-en-Dal
Last full day in the Kruger, and I was determined to spot something of
note, but it wasn’t to be. The Impala though are like vermin, far too
many of them.
I can
tell Bill’s mind is on going back home and seeing his girlfriend. He’s
in a bit of a daydream.
It was
my turn to Braai, chicken, baked potatoes, and onions. Strange mix, but
that’s all we had.
A
Dragoman overland truck arrived late at night. The usual routine followed,
pitch tents, and into the beer. Mostly Aussies again.
Tuesday 19th December
Kruger – Jo’berg
We left the Kruger early, and were in Jo’berg with Sannelie by 1
o’clock. She was working, so we left her to it and went off to another
shopping mall. I needed to do some shopping for my relatives in Zimbabwe.
I’d forgotten how much I hate supermarkets, it was probably the most
stressful thing I’ve done in 6 months.
Sannelie took us to her Aunt’s place, a rented property on the edge of
one of the townships. It was, as every other home I’d seen in Jo’berg
a fortress, electric fence, big dog etc. While we were enjoying a beer we
heard gunshots. I heard gunshots every day in Jo’berg.
We went on a moonlit tour of Pretoria. Saw the University, Voortreker
Monument, and the Union Buildings (Parliament).
Ate at another “Dros” restaurant. No repeat of the cheesy pasta, I had
leg of lamb which was superb.
Wednesday 20th December
Jo’berg
We had breakfast at a highway service station. I filled all my Jerry cans
in readiness for the inevitable fuel shortages in Zimbabwe.
To kill time before Bill’s flight we headed into Jo’berg in search of
the zoo! We found it, but it was raining so we went to the military museum
next door. It was very good especially the display about the Boer war.
Like everything (parks, museums, gardens) in South Africa it’s done
properly and is well maintained, a pleasant change after the Middle East.
Dropped Bill off at Jo’berg airport and said our goodbyes. It had been
good fun, Bill had come out to do Sudan and Ethiopia, but plans had to
change. Even so I think he had a good time. Drove back to Sannelie’s
feeling a little lonely. I’d travelled with someone since leaving
Jordan, and I was now on my own again. Turned the radio up a notch or two
and soon forgot about it!
DISASTER! I’ve lost the card with the digital photos from Egypt.
Thursday 21st December
Jo’berg
Spent all day at Sannelie’s work learning about the “ins and outs”
of perishable food transportation. Whether your peaches and plums arrive
in the UK all depends on which way the wind is blowing at JHB
international. If it’s blowing the wrong way the pilot will want to
loose some weight before take off, the first thing to go is the fruit.
I must thank Marks & Spencers for the wonderful grapes and peaches!
We’d planned a Braai, but the weather didn’t look good so we moved it
indoors.
A travel companion of Sannelies arrived to drop some stuff off. They stuck
their heads in the photo album while I discussed life in general wife
Sannelie’s Aunt. She gave me some nice homemade jam and marmalade,
should go down well in Zim for Xmas.
Friday 22nd December
Jo’berg - Mesina
Said my farewells again and on the road to Messina. A 7 hour drive, which
got a bit more interesting after Pietersberg- Mountains, forest and deep
ravines. Spotted the first Baobab tree of the trip
Made it to Messina by 4 o’clock. Fueled up again and got the last of the
Xmas shopping for Zimbabwe. A quick bite to eat before bed. I wanted to be
at the border when it opened at 6 o’clock, so an early night was in
order.
Saturday 23rd December
Messina – Chiredzi
Geez, What a scrumage! I’m sure someone will die in the Immigration hall
at Beitbridge. The Zim side was a bit more organised, but still packed. I
made it through by 9 o’clock, a 3 hour ordeal.
This is what I remember Africa for, bushland, rondavels and cattle and
goats on the roads.
Met Nattelie as arranged in Chiredzi. She took me off to her in-laws (the
Burbages) for lunch, a beer, and a dip in the pool (much needed, it’s
very hot and humid in the lowveld)
We had a Braai that evening with fresh prawns.
Sunday 24th December
Chiredzi – Mutare
Lazy morning catching up with the news and sport on TV, then back to the
Burbages for another swim.
Hit the road at 12 o’clock, it was quite a nice drive to Mutare, but
there were so many animals on the road. I nearly hit a goat, but it was a
bit too quick for me!
Met up with Jill and Colin at Colin’s sisters Mandie’s house. Did a
quick run around town for Diesel and an ATM. Then the party began, Booze
and snacks, followed by more booze and a fabulous meal.
Jill and Mandy went night clubbing while Colin and I got rather sloshed
and talked some real crap.
Jill came back at 2.30 and woke me to wish me merry xmas! I burbled
something about “You’ve got the map upside down, we’ll never find
our way like this!”
Monday 25th December
Mutare – Nyanga
Breakfast,
opened presents then off to Jill and Colin’s mountain hideaway.
The scenery was wonderful, huge rock formations surrounded by a canopy of
flat top acacia trees.
Their mountain hideaway is fantastic, an old farmhouse on 12 acres of
wooded hillside. There’s no mains water or electricity, just a 12v truck
battery and water pumped from the mountain stream.
I would have normally been in Scotland for Xmas, and this has to be the
closest substitute I’d find in Africa. It feels very much like home,
very peaceful, and thankfully cool.
Tuesday 26th December
Nyanga
Up early to go fishing on Loch Moodie. Now this is so much like the
highland lochs on the west coast of Scotland it’s untrue. Only one trout
in the morning, but I didn’t care too much the scenery was more than
enough for me.
Back to the “Ranch” for brunch, and a quick siesta before we headed
back to the loch. My turn to catch a fish, a nice 2lb rainbow trout, very
pleased, it’s the first fish I’ve caught for at least ten years. I’d
forgotten what a thrill the “fight” can be.
Wednesday 27th December
Nyanga
A late breakfast, then some sightseeing. Went up to “World’s View”.
Colin and I climbed to the top for a better view, quite some panorama. It
was a shame about the weather.
Next stop Rhodes Hotel for a “toot” (beer) or two. It was Cecil Rhodes
old house, very colonial and in beautiful grounds. We sat out on the front
lawn and watched the world go by. Met up with Nattelie, her Husband Griff
and their daughter Amy. A few more beers, then we all returned to the
ranch for more booze and some grub.
Thursday 28th December
Nyanga
Another early morning for more fishing. Back for brunch and back to the
Loch again. This time it was Griff’s turn to catch a fish.
Braai and bed.
Friday 29th December
Nyanga
Colin and I went for a morning stroll to a view point he knew about. What
a view! We decided to return in the evening for our “sundowners”
Jill put Colin and me on work duty, painting the maid’s Kya. That took
most of the day, we just had time to do a bit of logging for the fire and
boiler before “sundowners”
I had a bottle of champagne meant for table mountain, but I’d forgotten
about it and this seemed a good a time as any.
Saturday 30th December
Nyanga
Another day of fishing, but not so much as a bite all day. We consoled
ourselves by eating the 4 trout we had caught for supper. Lekker!
Sunday 31st December
Nyanga - Cheredzi
Up early to pack away. Did a few jobs for the maid, repaired her sewing
machine, and attempted to fix her radio, but it was beyond repair, too
many beetles and insects nesting in it!
By the time we got back to Chiredzi there was just time for a quick swim
in the pool before heading round to Colin and Jill,s friends, the
“Fensomes”, another Colin! and his wife Meena. Meena is Italian, so I
don’t need to say how wonderful the food was.
After we’d eaten the Dominoes came out. Yes that’s right I spent New
Year’s eve playing Doms! The forfeit for the looser was a glass of ouzo,
needless to say by 12 o’clock we were all flying. Continued with the
Dominoes till 2 o’clock (12 in the UK) when we watched the festivities
back home in the UK.
Splashed around in the pool till 4 o’clock, then home to bed.