Diary: July 4th - 18th
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 4th to 18th July (Click on photos to enlarge)

Hell, it’s been a long time since I last updated you all, I think the last time I wrote I was still working on the vehicle up in Scotland. Well all that work has completed (extra fuel tank, new shocks and springs new bushes all round and a new clutch have been fitted.)

I also made some changes to the internal layout of Maggie (The Land Rover).  I took a trip to the West Coast of Scotland with my girlfriend Rosie, during the trip we discovered that certain things about the camping setup left a lot to be desired. i.e. the large plastic crates I had stored most of my kit in made for wonderful hiding places for small items such as teaspoons etc. So with the help of my father (thanks again dad) we made some fitted boxes with drawers to store the cooking equipment and other stuff that I would be using frequently.

I also had Maggie serviced in Scotland before I set off, that was well worth it as the wonderful guys (especially Paul) at Frank Ogg’s in Elgin found the source of one of my major concerns about Maggie’s performance. One of the turbo hoses had a very small split in it, and when replaced it made a world of difference.

I left my parent’s House in Scotland, with I’m not ashamed to say a tear or two in the eyes, and headed south to Preston where I spent the night with some old contracting mates of mine from Germany. Thanks again to John and Anna for a wonderful evening/morning, not that John will be reading this as his idea of communications still revolve around carrier pigeons or 2 tin cans and a piece of string! It was great to see those guys again, and the presents were greatly appreciated especially the pies!

Next stop Harrogate to see Richard and Joe Hepper, (the previous owner of Maggie). They both seemed very pleased to see Maggie again, they obviously became very attached to her as you would do having traveled so far with her. I know it was not an easy decision for them to part with her, and I know Richard was more concerned about finding the right owner for her than he was about the money side of things.

I got some last minute tips from Richard and Joe and relieved them of the last of their Larium Tablets, which were still in date and greatly appreciated as the price of them is horrendous. I set of for Wootton Bassett expecting quite a long journey, but the England Germany game had kept the roads clear and I made great time, good enough to catch the second half!

The next 2 weeks were spent awaiting the arrival of any outstanding paperwork, and getting my accountant to wrap up my company and make me redundant, thanks Haydn the money may come in handy!

My last weekend in England was fairly hectic, an off-roading course in Hereford on Saturday, followed by a friends wedding that evening in Chipping Campden.

(Picture of Happy Couple departing on Honeymoon) 

Like your style Nick, not sure Anne was so keen!! 
Oh sorry guys: forgot to thank you for the knife and music tape. (Swiss yodeling!)

I had planned to head off on Monday the 3rd but my friends insisted on a leaving do at my local pub, and I wasn’t prepared to set off with a bad head so I delayed departure by one day.

That should pretty much bring things up to date prior to departure. From here on in I’m going to attempt to keep a daily diary, I don’t know how long I’ll be able to keep it up for, I’ll try to keep it fairly concise for each day unless something earth-shattering occurs. Any comments greatly appreciated. You can email me at rand_lover@hotmail.com

Cheers
Col & Maggie

 Tuesday 4^th July
Wootton Bassett – Calais – Arras

Bad start! Forgot about the road works at junction 16 of the M4, it took me one hour to cover the first 2 ½ miles, (which reminds me I must work out how long the whole trip would take at that speed!)

Hence I arrived at Dover a tad late. Stopped by man at customs wanting to know where I was going when I told him Cape Town he asked where about in France that was, so I enlightened him.

I got a day return ticket to Calais as that was only 45 quid and a single was over 100, plus you get a free bottle of spirit with the day return, Where’s the logic there then? I’d love to know.

Arrived in Calais at approx. 2.00 PM. It was p***ing down so I headed of south to try and find the sun, but to no avail. I couldn’t find a campsite anywhere and the day was getting on so I decided to put up in a Hotel for the night

Maggie not sounding too healthy, bad squealing noise coming from below. Could be fan belt, but too wet to investigate tonight will have a look in the morning.

Watched “Waking Ned” with French dubbing, even better than original!

Wednesday 5^th July
Arras-St Quentin (not very far!)

Maggie sounding even worse, a quick look below revealed one of the Universal Joints was shot. I decided to try and find a garage to do the work for me. I felt that that would be far quicker than doing the job myself, especially if they had a press. On my third attempt I found somewhere that would do the work, but not until 2.00 pm (Apres le Dejeuner!) so I found a campsite for the night, as I knew that by the time the work was complete it would be getting on a bit. I returned to the garage at 2.00pm.  By now Maggie was really sounding like a bag of nails (literally!) The garage started work immediately, and I was in two minds as to whether to go off for a stroll, or to hang around I decided on the latter, just as well:-

1- They didn’t have the right spanners to remove the prop shaft, and were in the process of stripping the heads off the bolts when I presented them with my set.

2 - The Mechanic dropped the Universal Joint and lost 2 of the needle rollers, after an hour of searching we couldn’t find them, so I reluctantly told him to scrap it and gave him another U.J. which I watched like a hawk. (expensive, but I’ve held on to the 1^st one incase it comes in handy!)

3 - He then lost one of the bolts that secure the prop shaft, but this time we were in luck and I found it after only 20mins.

Needless to say they didn’t charge me, and I’ve learnt a lesson, next time I’ll either do the job myself, or ask to use a garage workshop.

Back to the campsite for a bite to eat, and bed. Feeling pleased that Maggie is OK again

Thursday 6^th July
St Quentin-Riems-Choumont-Langres

Had intended to drive to Dijon to day, but got a little way-laid I stopped in Choumont for a look around (Wonderful Cathedral) and then popped into a supermarket for provisions. Was heading to Dijon when I came across Langers which looked too good to pass by so I parked up for a look around this beautiful walled town, I was just thinking it would be a wonderful place to spend the night when I noticed on the tourist info leaflet that there was a campsite within the town walls, so that was that, not a great distance traveled today either, but what’s the rush, don’t have to be in Syria until mid Sept so might as well take it easy.

Superb electrical storm in the evening, lasted for 4 hours. This was to be the first of many storms that would be following me for days.

Fridat 7^th July
Langers-Dijon-Chambrey-Montmelion

Drove down through the vineyards south of Dijon, quite spectacular, I noticed the vineyard of Alex Corton (Fawlty Towers Wine!!) Raining when I was in Dijon, so I gave it a miss, and carried on to Bourge en Bresse. Camped at Montemellion right below the Col du Frene.

Went to take a picture, and discovered I’d left the camera behind at a post card shop above the Lac de Bourge.  I dashed back through Chambrey in rush hour traffic, fearing the worst, but the nice man in the shop had noticed it and put it aside for me. I offered him some money for his kindness. He  refused, and showed me all the other stuff people had left behind that day, must have been at least 5 cameras !

I was having a bad day. When I got back to the campsite I couldn’t find my mobile phone, but this time I hadn’t mislaid it, it had fallen through a hole in the dashboard I didn’t know existed.

Saturday 8^th July
Montmelion-Turin (via Col du Mont Ciens)-Asti

I had intended to enter Italy via the Tunnel du Frejur, but I noticed another route via the Col du Mont Ciens, and was truly glad I did. There’s a lake at the top of the Mont Ciens and the water was the same turquoise/blue you see on postcards of tropical beaches. Like everyone else, I  stopped and snapped away.  Stopped just over the border in Italy to get some Lira, and have a look around. My French is bad, but my Italian is non existent, so this should make for an entertaining few days.

It’s been a long time since I drove in Italy and I forgot how bad Italian drivers are! That’s not quite fair in general they’re pretty observant, and very forgiving when you get in the wrong lane and want to cross 3 lanes when the lights have just changed to green. ( I could do with a navigator)

Carried on to Asti, where I found a campsite for the night, worst so far.

Maggie making some strange noises again, sounds just like another U.J. is on the way out, but I’ve checked them all and they all appear fine. Noise appears to be coming from Transfer box, and it sounds very sinister (perhaps a chipped gear or worse!). Have decided it’s not something I can handle myself as the gearbox will have to come out, so I’ll look for a Rover garage in Genoa if I make it that far!

Made Spag Bol for my first night in Italy accompanied by a glass of Chianti!

 Sunday 9^th July
Asti-Alessandria-Genoa

Stopped just outside Genoa for provisions where I had to do a bit of charades with the shop keeper to get what I wanted i.e. chopping action followed by tears for onions and so it went on!

Found a nice campsite to the east of Genoa. The guy at the campsite was very helpful and gave me directions to the Land Rover dealer in Genoa.

My washing machine (large plastic drum with a watertight lid) is working a treat. I just fill it up in the morning, and as I drive along everything gets a thorough scrubbing, it’s especially good on bumpy Italian roads.

Monday 10^th July
Genoa-Parma

Set off back into Genoa to find Land Rover Dealer. Directions were spot on and I found it straight away. The guys at the garage were very helpful. The first mechanic took one listen and agreed with me, problem with transfer box, but just as we were about to put it onto the ramp the senior technician came over had a listen climbed under and stuck his boot against the exhaust and it stopped. I felt a bit of a fool, but on the positive side it only took 20 mins to fix and they refused to take any payment.

Returned to campsite to check out just before noon. I set off for Parma over the mountains, which I’m sure must normally provide a stunning view but it was raining and the mist had set in.

I found a wonderful site in Parma for the evening and found myself next to a dutch couple for the 4^th night in succession. Very nice people all of them, and they all speak perfect English which is just as well for me.

Tuesday 11^th July
Parma-Rimini

Had a day at the seaside. It was very tacky, just like Blackpool, but with sunshine. I met two Slovenian girls and 2 Belgian lads at the campsite, and we had a bit of a bender on Sangria. Managed to drink 7 bottles between the 5 of us. I was drinking mine accompanied with lots of water, so I’m hoping I don’t feel too bad in the morning!

Wednesday 12^th July
Rimini-Ancona-Pescara-Vasto

Lovely drive along the Italian riviera, but the road goes through so many towns and villages that I’m not making much progress today. I have been tempted to get on the toll road, but I’m going to see if things improve tomorrow. The map says that there’s dual carriageway south of Foggia so I’ll wait and see.

Horrendous storm when I was passing through Pescara. The car 30 ft in front of me just disappeared in the rain, so I pulled over and let it pass by. It took 20 mins to subside, but not until it had chucked down some hailstones the size of hazelnuts.

Made it to Vasto at 6.00 p.m. and decided to call it a day. Found a site next to the beach. Had Macaroni cheese for tea. (Rosie you may be interested to know it only took 10 mins this time!)

Thursday 13^th July
Vasto-Foggia-Bari-Brindisi

Road did change to dual carriageway at Foggia (paid for by an EU grant) so I made quick progress to Brindisi. Countryside very flat and the economy down south is obviously not as thriving as in the north. Most of the land is vinyards and fruit farming.

Arrived at Brindisi at 2.00 p.m. found a ticket office as soon as I pulled of the main road. It cost me 67 pounds for me and Maggie including a cabin, oh and 6 pounds departure tax which of course you have to pay at another office.

Arrived at the ferry at 5.30 p.m. and was boarded straight away. 

Maggie was on the upper deck surrounded by lorries carrying livestock. I was quite interested to note that the only driver who seemed to show any great concern as to the well fare of his cargo was a German. He had quite a barny with one of the deckhands because he felt that all the lorries were too close together and there was no room for air to circulate around the trucks. I noticed in the morning that he was also the only one to go onto the deck and water his animals.

We left Brindisi 1 hour late as there was a problem getting one of the anchors up and they had to call out a tug to assist.

I met an American girl (Karren) on the boat, and we passed the night away drinking Amstel and putting the E.U. to rights. It was gone midnight when I went to bed.

Friday 14^th July
Patra-Eleon Beach

The Ferry was due in at 11.00 p.m. Greek time, but it was gone 2.00 p.m. before we docked. Karren and I noticed that one of the ships in the Harbour at Patra had still been loading vehicles when we left Brindisi. We must have chosen the slow boat to Greece.

It was past 4.00 p.m. when I finally got off the boat, so I decided to drive for a short while until I found a campsite. The site I stumbled across was next to a beach and was quite beautiful.

Took my chair and a glass of wine down to the beach to watch the sun go down. While the sun was setting I could see lots of Forest fires burning on the opposite shore. Three seaplanes and two Helicopters were fighting the fires and I spent a few hours watching them collecting water from the sea and dowsing the flames.

Saturday 15^th July
Eleon Beach

Spent day servicing Maggie, getting some money and provisions and doing a bit of laundry.

Treated myself to lunch at a Taverna by the beach. (Greek salad and Sovlaki). Spent rest of the day relaxing by the sea and having the odd swim.

Sunday 16^th
Eleon Beach (Aigio)-Korinthos-Elefsina-Thiva-Lamia-Styliad

Stunning scenery on the drive from Aigio to Korinthos, so much so that the next thing I knew I was staring up at the Acropolis in Athens, well I thought you’ve done that one and got the T Shirt etc so I did a quick U turn. (on an 8 lane Highway!)  and set off back towards Elefsina and took the road up north towards Thiva

When I arrived at Thiva I decided to try and find the Archeological Museum, but to no avail after 1.5 Hours of searching.

Drove on to Lamia and found a campsite just outside at Stylida. It was the worst site I’ve found so far, and was just about to set off when one of the staff came over. I told him I didn’t think much of the place and was going to look elsewhere. After a quick bit of bartering we agreed on a price of just over 3 quid for the night, so I decided that I would make do at that price!

Went out to a Taverna that night and had Salad and Calamari (wonderful)

Monday 17^th  July
Stylida-Volos-Larisa-Thesaloniki-Epanomi

I discovered yesterday that all the toll booths on the Greek motorways are closed on Sundays, as today I had to pay my first toll since setting off, but it was less than a quid, so I couldn’t really grumble.

Saw a spectacular lorry jackknife on the road to Larisa (driver got out OK!). While everyone else was waiting for the road to be cleared I climbed the kerb along with some other 4x4s and made a quick detour to get back on the Motorway.

Arrived in Thesaloniki at rush hour which was a laugh, took 3 hours to get through town, but it was useful as I spotted some of the places I planned on visiting the next day.

I stumbled across the best site yet, just outside a little village called Epanomi. It’s a Greek tourist board site, just by the beach, and it’s kept really clean. They even have loo roll in the toilets!!

Went into town for some provisions and cooked a rather strong chicken curry.

Tuesday 18^th July
Empanomi

Got up early and set off back into Thesaloniki to see some of the Museums. Went to the Byzantine and the Achealogical Museum. Both very impressive, but too much to take in one day.

Spent 2 hours looking around Thesaloniki for some Envelopes to post the Floppy disks back to Martin. I tried the post office first, but that was too obvious. A woman at the post office assured me there was a stationary shop just round the corner, but could I not find it!

Returned to the campsite at 4 o’clock and went for a swim etc.

May head off to Halkadiki  tomorrow not sure yet, will see which way the wind is blowing!