Diary: 19th - 30th July 

Click here for photos from this diary entry.
This entry includes an article on the Sea Turtle 2000 project

Wednesday 19^th July
Empanomi-Thermi-Arnaia-Asprovalta-Kavala

Drove up into the mountains it was raining heavily so I didn’t take any Pictures. Made very slow progress because of the weather and very windy roads. I stopped at Aspovalta for salad and Scampi (average).

Found a nice site in Kavala I went to the campsite restaurant for tea. It was deserted: the waiter said that the war in Yugoslavia had badly affected the trade. This may be a partial explanation for some of the graffiti I have seen (NATO PIGS!)

Started reading “The wrong way home” by Peter Moore and went to bed.

Thursday 20^th July
 Kavala-Xanthi-Alexandropoli

Short days drive, but I wanted to tidy a few things up before crossing into Turkey. I thought I had found some fellow overlanders at the campsite. A German couple in a very well prepared Mercedes G Wagon. They did do a lot of traveling in Southern Africa, but they shipped every year from Germany to Cape Town. They had traveled extensively through Asia in the 1950’s following the hippie trail. They said they had driven to Pakistan from Germany 12 times from 1950 to 1962, and he recalled how there was hardly a bit of tarmac to mention in those days.

 I also met a nice couple (John & Shelia) from North Wales who marked up my map of Turkey with some good campsites and other info while we had a drink or two. The campsite was swarming with Mozzies so I went to bed.

Friday 21^st July
Alexandropoli-Ipsala-Kesan-Galipolli

I awoke to find a Mozzie had bitten me on the eyelid during the night. I looked like the “Hunch Back of Notre Dame” and on a bad day at that. I would have taken a picture of myself but because of another mozzie bite to my elbow it was rather painful to hold the camera at arm’s length. Anyway, I’m sure some of you would claim that they couldn’t see any difference!

The border into Turkey was pretty straightforward. I used some Deutche Marks I had found lying around my house to pay for the visa and other bits and bobs. Not sure what the DM4  was for. Someone told me it was for Customs paperwork and others that it was for the Turkish Doctor to give me the all clear (can’t remember seeing a doctor at the border).

I was mobbed by shoeshine boys at the first junction, but got away unscathed. I drove on through Kesan and down the Peninsula to Galipolli. I past by the town of Galipolli and went straight off to find the Military Park. 

I took a look round the Museum just above ANZAC cove. I found the most interesting things were the letters home from the soldiers. Very moving, but yet still all seemed to convey that typical British (Commonwealth) “stiff upper lip”

I found a campsite just around the corner from the Museum. I was the only non-Turk in the whole place. It would serve as a good base for exploring the memorials etc the next day, and it was only 2 quid a night.

Saturday 22^nd July 
No Mozzies, so slept in until 9.00 am had breakfast and off to see ANZAC cove. Immediately struck by how little beach there was to land on. It’s not surprising some of them never even got off the boats. 

I went on to see Green Hill Cemetery, whilst on the way I saw a Turkish bloke running along the track in the mid-day sun. (I thought it was only mad dogs and English men.) When I walked out of the cemetery he had caught up with me and was struggling up the hill towards me. “Want a lift?” I asked

So he clambered on the running boards. He told me he was a fisherman and he was late for his boat. Judging by his breath he’d had a night on the Raki. I dropped him at his boat, for which he was extremely grateful, and returned south to see Helles Point.

 The Memorial at Helles Point lists every company, unit and ship that was involved in the campaign. It was here that I really got a grip of what a total waste it had all been.

Had lunch at a local Restaurant. (Mezze Kebab Beer and a Coffee) and returned to the site for a swim and to update diary.

Sunday 23^rd July
 Gelipolli-Canakale (Ferry)-Bergama-Aligia

Not a lot to report really. Maggie not sounding too good. It was getting on a bit and I thought it might not be a good idea to head into Izmir at 4-5 o’clock so I stopped short at a site within a Hotel’s grounds. They said if I wanted to use the pool it would cost an extra 2 quid. The camping was only 3 so I said “No Thanks” He later said I could use it for free, so I swam in the sea instead!

Monday 24^th July
Aligia-Izmir-Ephesus-Budrum (U-turn)

I went to a local mechanics to see if he could find the source of my concern. I was met with hugs and kisses, as if it were the return of the prodigal son! We went for a drive around the block. He thought I was imagining things, but gave her a good look over an oil change, a 6,000 mile service, a full valet and jet wash. After 2 hours, 3 cups of tea and 2 Cigarettes he told me not to be so paranoid took 7 quid off me and sent me on my way.

I set off to Izmir, and immediately another rattle started. I screamed ‘Shut up, don’t piss me off” and low and behold it stopped!

It’s been about 4 years since I was in Izmir. God, I forgot what a sprawl the place is the only sight I could recognize was the Sheraton Hotel in the centre and the old fort on the hill. I used the motorway for 60 kms or so, as it was only 25pence. Well within my budget.

I arrived at Ephesus at midday, and decided it wasn’t a good time to go climbing around ancient ruins. I thought “I Know I’ll pop down the road to Bodrum for a night on the town” (Big Mistake)

The road to Bodrum was awful. 3 ½ hours later I arrived. What a hellhole and expensive. Did quick U-turn and went back to a campsite I had seen 20kms back down the coast.

 The site was wonderful, right by the sea, I went straight in for a swim, it had been a long hot day in the car and I needed to cool off. The campsite owner brought me copious quantities of tea while I sat and read my book.

 I was looking a little disheveled, so set off into town to find the barbers. What an experience! I managed to explain that I wanted my hair cut really short with the clippers. He was a bit shocked, but did a great job with some very antiquated clippers. It was the shave that was the best bit it went something like this: -

1.  Lots of shaving foam massaged into face
2.  Shave with cutthroat razor
3.  Repeat steps 1 & 2 twice more (for that real close shave)
4.  Trim nasal hair with scissors.
5.  Pluck out facial hair on cheeks using a piece of cord tied in a strange 3-way knot. 
      Held by both hands and teeth. 
      (My eyes were streaming, which the barber thought was hilarious)
6. Take good swig of beer the barber has just presented you with to take away some of the pain.
7.  Wrap some cotton wool around a stick, dip in mentholated spirits, light and flick in the ears to remove any unsightly ear hair! (Bloody sore I can tell you!)
8.  Quick swig of beer 
9.   Wash face
10. Massage in loads of aftershave.
11. Massage back, and shoulders.
12. Grab head and twist violently both ways until loud cracking noise is heard.
13. Another swig of beer
14. Throw some kind of talcum powder over face and massage in.
15. And finally violent slap on back whilst downing last of beer.

 All very good value for 2 quid, and surprisingly you do feel great afterwards.

 The town has a lovely harbour and a great little local market, so I’ll probably stay for another night.

 Curry part II and bed.

 Tuesday 25^th July
 Bodrum(ish)  I cant find the name of the place on the map!

 Spent most of day laying around re-charging batteries, and eating too much. Had some sort of pastry I bought from one of the local hawkers for breakfast. Gozleme for lunch (cheese or meat wrapped in a type of pancake, and a Meze (various vegetable dishes) and a large beer for tea.

 I met John, a nice Turkish guy who knew Turkey very well. He advised me of places I should see and roads to avoid if possible. I also met an Austrian Woman and her Syrian Husband who gave me some travel advice for Syria.

 I asked the campsite owner if it was ok for me to plug my computer into a socket I found nearby. I had been working away for 40 mins or so when the computer switched off. I hadn’t noticed that there had been a powercut earlier and the computer had been working off the batteries for a while. When the electric company van arrived on the sight and started tinkering around in one of the junction boxes I recalled a few sparks I had seen when I plugged the computer in. Needless to say I kept a low profile until they had sorted it out!

 Wednesday 26^th July  
 Bodrum(ish)- Epesus (Click here for Ephesus photos)

Had Turkish style breakfast with John and his girlfriend. By the time we had finished it was getting towards midday so I decided to set of for Ephesus in the afternoon.

 It was still a bloody hot drive to Ephesus, but found campsite near the ruins. Not great place but cheap.

Thursday 27^th July  
Ephesus-Aydin-Mugla (Click here for Ephesus photos)

 Up early to get to ruins at 8 o’clock. Walked from one end to the other and back again snapping away on the camera like crazy. Too much to describe, hope the photos help. Bits of beautifully carved stone and marble littering the whole site. 

An American couple sang “My Way” in the grand theatre it was really magical. I sat at the top at the time. The acoustics were phenomenal; the whole place came to a stand still for 5 mins. They were given a standing ovation by about 2 thousand fellow tourist and lots of shouts of “encore!”  

 I had seen the whole place by 1 o’clock and it was too hot to wander around anymore, so I set off to Fethiye. At 5 o’clock I found a site near Mugla again by the sea. The thermometer I have in the car got to 50 degrees C at one stage, so a swim was in order.

I had tea at the campsite restaurant  (Spag Bol and a beer) all for under 2 quid. A girl played a flute in the restaurant as the sun set. Very nice, much more pleasing to the ear than the packs of wild dogs that patrolled the campsite howling all night.

Friday 28^th July  
Mugla-Fethia

Car wouldn’t start, I thought there was a problem yesterday when the ignition key barrel started playing funny games. So it was off with the instrument pack and steering cowl and a bit of messing around with the contacts to “hotwire” the ignition. I had to use elastic bands to hold the contacts together, which is not an easy job when your hands are sweating profusely.  Found the local Land Rover dealer in Mugla, but he didn’t have a new ignition barrel in stock, so he took me round to an automotive electrician who fitted a Turkish made Barrel, and made a very neat job of it I must say. Part cost 3 pounds and 1 pound for 0.5 hours labour. I was going to go into Antalya and get a genuine part fitted, but I quite like the idea that you now need 3 keys to drive the car. (Old ignition key for steering lock, new ignition key and the immobiliser key). May cause any potential thief a bit of a headache!

I found a campsite just outside Fethia, and came across a group of students who were studying the Sea Turtles in the area. I asked if I could join them and was told to be ready for 7 o’clock the next morning.

Saturday 29^th July

 I was up at 6.30 am to go out scouring the beaches with the “Sea Turtle Project 2000” guys. To my delight they dug a nest that morning (Click here for Turtle photos). 

In exchange for being allowed to go out with them I promised to do a bit of a write up for them, so here it is:-

SEA TURTLE 2000 PROJECT

The group is made up of students from 3 Universities. Izmir, Pamukkale (Turkey) and Vienna. They started their work on this beach in 1992, and have returned every summer since. As well as research they are also trying to conserve the turtles nesting grounds and increase their numbers. 

Their main contribution is to dig out the nests after 5-7 days of the initial sighting of turtles emerging from the nests. Through their research they now know that those hatchlings that have not emerged from the nest after 5-7 days are unlikely to make it out, and are literally “cooked” in the hot sand.

The group I met up with were patrolling 3 beaches (Akgol, Yaniklar and Calis) a total of 8.5 kms. Which makes for a very tiring walk in hot temperatures! The leader of the Group, Adem, a research assistant at Izmir University, told me that these beaches had what they call “partial protection”. This just involves a sign on the beach asking people to leave any turtles alone!

Another beach (Dalyan) which the group started working on in 1988 now has “Full Protection” which involves preventing tourists entering the beach from 6.00pm ‘til 6.00 am. No lights are allowed on the beach as this can confuse the turtle’s sense of direction. The front of the beach is also a “NO GO” area for deck chairs, sun loungers, umbrellas etc.

Adem told me that the major threat to the turtles nesting grounds is that a lot of sand is being taken from the beaches to build new hotels. This was very evident from my walk along the beach; most of the beaches are just pebbles. Also the turtles get caught in fishermen’s nets, and are unable to surface for air.

 On the three beaches they are patrolling the turtle numbers (nest sites) have dropped from 120 at this time last year to 83 now. But Adem said this may be a natural cycle, but it was too early to tell.

 I arrived too late for the nesting season, but the groups do night shifts on the beach. Waiting for the turtles to come ashore and sneaking up on them “commando” style to count the number of eggs they lay. They also note the size of the turtles and any parasites they may have on their shells before tagging them.

 This year they have also started recording the temperature at various depths in the nests, which leads me nicely to the next part: -

Ten Things you didn’t know about sea turtles

1. The sex of the hatchlings is determined by the temperature of the egg in the nest. From 26 to 28 degrees C the turtles will be male, and from 28 to 30 degrees C they will be female. At 28 degrees C they are a mix.

2. The Marine carapace (upper shell) can be up to 100cm in length on an adult

3. They feed on Fish, Musles and coelenterates

4.  A female deposits around 100 eggs into her nest on the beach

5.  The hatchlings emerge during the night after an incubation period of approximately two months and head straight for the sea.

6. They are found in warm and temperate oceans and the Mediterranean.

7. To prevent their extension they are now protected under M.A.P (Mediterranean Action Plan)

8. The dorsum is usually reddish-brown, the venter whiteish-light yellow.

9.  Because of tourism, urban and industrial exploitation of the beaches their nesting grounds in the Mediterranean are gravelly endangered.

10.  There are two types of Sea turtle found in the Mediterranean. The Caretta Caretta and the Chelonia Mydas.

These guys really are doing a wonderful job; it may sound like a bit of a breeze. 3.5 months on a beach, but they work long hours and it’s not much fun walking 8.5 kms of scorching sand every day. For anyone out there who is interested in the project, or feels they may be able to make some sort of contribution, (they desperately need funding for more equipment) Their contact info follows: -

Professor Dr Ibrahim Baran  
9 Eylul University  
Buca Education Faculty  
Biology Department

Tel:+902324204882/1364 Izmir Turkey

e-mail: ibrahim.baran@deu.edu.tr  
or Adem the group leader I met: adem_oz@yahoo.com