Diary: June 2001 

Wednesday 30th May
Swakopmund
Spent all day updating diary and sorting out photos for the website. Bloody boring, I hope you lot appreciate it! 
Cooked Chilli “Cin” Carne for supper (Aiak’s vegitarian)

Thursday 31st May
Felt like a swim, amazed to find Swakopmund has an Olympic size pool, bloody cold mind you, but it was a nice way to start the day. Had a look around the curio stalls before heading into town for E-Mail, shopping etc.
Chilli part II then of to the “Flicks” to watch “Traffic”. Good film, but very long.

Friday 1st June 
Swakopmund – (god knows where!)

Packed up Maggie and headed north. Coastline was very boring, so we headed inland at what they call “Mile 108” Scenery changed dramatically.
We stumbled across the “Save the Rhino” base camp on the Ugab river. A nice spot, and very friendly people. We were given vague directions to Abu Huab, our ultimate destination:- “Oh, just follow the main track, you can’t go wrong!” That’s exactly what we did, the scenery was completely out of this world. A sort of “Moonscape”, and a bit of fun off-road driving for Aika. We spotted a few Gemsbok (Oryx) or rather we saw their dust trails first. It was however definitely only a 4X4 route, and got quite tough in places, but Aika coped admirably. We both got a bit carried away with the scenery and driving, and it was too late that I realised that we weren't going to make it to Abu Huab before sunset, and in fact we were not where we expected to be. We were lost! Well, that’s not quite true, our route should have taken us in an arc towards the north east, but the trail I’d followed (the only one) had lead us north until we hit a dry river bed. It was here that things started to get a bit tough. A sand storm blew up, and it was impossible to see where the track lead. I ended up on foot leading Aika and Maggie across the sand dunes. I realised then, that I was being very foolish, and I needed to calm down and get my head around things. We got out of the sand dunes and camped up for the night. While Aika made supper I got my head around the maps and GPS. I knew we wernt were we should be, but on the other hand I knew where we where! The river we’d just crossed should lead east towards Abu Huab, and I decided we’d follow it in the morning. 

Saturday 2nd June
(Who knows!) Abu Huab

We drove up the river bed for 20 km’s or so until we came across some farmers. One guy, (Dominique) spoke excellent English, and assured me that we were now on the right route to Abu Huab. We chatted to him for ½ an hour or so before heading off.
Abu Huab camp was all we’d been told it would be, a beatiful campsite along the backs of a river, the same river I’d followed! The Showers were amazing, all the plumbing had been hidden in the trunk of a tree, all you saw was the taps and the shower head. They’d even carved a soapdish into the trunk.!
Went to Twyfelfontain to see the rock paintings and carvings. Very interesting, and our guide knew her stuff, which made for a change. Had a look at the “Organ Pipes” a strange volcanic rock formation. Something similar to the giants causeway in Ireland, but on a much smaller scale. Finally we stopped by at burnt mountain which was nothing more than a pile of black gravel. Something ressmbling a slag heap from a coal mine, but not even that big, and certainly not worthy of a photgraph!
Back to Campsite for a relax in the hammock.


Sunday 3rd June
Abu Huab – Uis

Leasuirley start to the day, then onto find the pertified frorest. Be careful! There are some “bogus” petrified forests along this road! Only visit the one on the north on the road. The one marked “Versteenwoud” We didn’t! we did see a few fosilised trees at our bogus site, but nothing very impressive.
Gave the real site a miss after that.
One of the main curios in Namibia is a carved marula nut, or that’s what I think it is! They usally come on a leather thong and have animal or plant carvings on them. When we stopped in Khorixias for fuel a guy approached me and asked my name, I replied and thought nothing more of it, but before I knew it he presented me with one of these nuts, not only did it have my name on it, but also Maggie’s registration. I had to admire his initiative and after some easy bargaining, (lets face it how many other Colin’s are going to turn up with a “H 428 FRJ” reg car) he had to sell it, and he knew it!
Helped a family of stranded motorists on the way to Uis. They’d blow two tyres and only had one spare. I lent them some patches and inflated both tyres for them. I don’t know if they’ll make it to Uis, you could virtually see through the rubber on all their tryes!
First campsite we checked out in Uis was Ok, but the owner got my back up straight away with his “in your face” attitude. He slagged off the other campsite in town, and he wasn’t wrong it was a bit of a dive. However it was cheaper, and they had a swimming pool to cool off in, so I was sold.
It was here that I met Eddie and Cecile, a Belgian guy and his French wife. They’re heading in my direction, so we’ve arranged to meet up outside Etosha in 5-6 days time.

Monday 4th June
Uis – Leopardbach camp (outside Windhoek)

Had a swim in the pool which I shared with various other floating objects. Aika cooked pancakes for breakfast.
We checked out a couple of craft markets in Amaruru. I swaped two T shirts for a wooden Land Rover, a novel curio I thought! After an hour or so we’d had enough. It was a bit like being back in Egypt again, too much hassle and most of the curios I’d seen before.
Aika wanted one last night under the stars before we parted ways in Windhoek. The place we chose, Leopard camp was ideal. The owner a Swiss cattle farmer was very helpful and gave me enough fire wood to start a small inferno. He pointed us in the direction of the campsite. It turned out to be quite a drive up a very steep hill, but it was well worth it. The view from our hill top perch was wonderful.

Tuesday 5th June
Leopardbach Camp – Windhoek

Into Windhoek, found the Zambian Embassy straight away. (I like small towns!) told to come back and collect my visa in the afternoon, can this be true?
We checked into the “cardboard box” backpackers where I met Paul and Ingrid, a Belgium couple who’ve come down from Cairo in their Land Cruiser. 
Into town to do E-Mail, shopping etc and collect my visa. I knew it was too good to be true. The Consul hasn’t returned from her meeting and I have to come back tomorrow.
A few beers with Paul and Ingrid at the backpackers, before going into town for a meal. It was Paul and Ingrid’s anniversary. They’d been on the road for one year, it was nice to share the evening with them, and pick up a few tips in the process.

Wednesday 6th June
Windhoek

Another day of shopping and correspondence.
Lisa called to say she would be unable to make the trip with me to Etosha, a shame, but Aika has decided to come along instead. That’s fine with me I’ll be glad of the company.
Picked up my Zambian visa. Expensive at £35. I’ve since found out that you can get it much cheaper by contacting one of the lodges in Zambia who will arrange a visa for you upon arrival, oh well!
Spent evening trawling over maps and guidebooks with Paul and Ingrid.

Thursday 7th June
Windhoek – Etosha

Slow start, blocked in by two other cars.
To avoid the high park fees we camped at a site just outside the gate. The site was on a farm, as are most of the cheaper campsites in Namibia. The farmers are trying to make a little extra money to bolster their income
The farmer had captured 3 cheetahs and a leopard on his land, and was using them as a sort of tourist attraction. Not sure if I totally agree with this, you’d have to ask the cat if he’s happy being confined and handed his meal on a plate, or would he rather have a bullet through the head!
Aika had to buy me a few beers. She’d lost a bet (Sudan is the largest country in Africa, but only just)

Friday 8th June
Etosha

Into the west gate of Etosha at 7 o’clock. It was just as I’d imagined, thousands of zebra and wildebeest. We took a look at the pan, to which Aika said she felt very much at home (Holland).
We bumped into Eddie and Cecile at Halali camp, then off for more game viewing. It wasn’t so good. The recent rains have meant the waterholes aren’t so busy and there’s plentiful vegitation. We did see a black backed jackal and some Red Hartebest however.
Camped at Namutomi. It was OK, but I think Eddie and Cecile had the right idea staying at Halali. It’s more central and has better facilities.
Made my famous Chilli Con Carne for supper.

Saturday 9th June
Etosha (Namutomi) – Saksenheim

Up at 5 o’clock for an early game drive. Should have stayed in bed! Stopped at every waterhole on the way back to Halali, but Zebra and Wildebeest were all we saw.
A swim and lunch before heading east back to Namutomi. Again nothing. I was beginning to despair when at 5 o’clock we stumbled across a herd of 30+ Elephants. It more than made up for our poor morning, but we only had 20 mins to get out of the gate, so we didn’t hang around for long.
Made it to the gate with 1 minute to spare, not that I think they’re too worried if you arrive within ½ an hour or so of closing time.
Onto Saksenheim, a campsite Eddie had told me about. Met George and Anette, a German couple who’s come down from Mombassa.

Sunday 10th June
Saksenheim – Tsumeb

Did the usual info swap with George and Anette.
A last coffee and cake with Aika, before I dropped her off on the road towards Windhoek. Said our farewells, it had been fun travelling with her, and I’ll miss her funny little laugh. Lucky Cow! The first car she stuck a thumb out for stopped!
Back to Tsumeb campsite. Did a bit of “car work” Then Eddie and Cecile turned up from Etosha. They had seen Lions, oh well!

Monday 11th June
Tsumeb – Tsumkwe

Provisions and diesel in town. A fax to the UK to extend my travel insurance. They’ll only give me another 6 months, anyone out there know a company who’ll cover me beyond December? cause I’m not rushing home!
Off we go! I wasn’t to sure if I could keep up with a big V8 Landie, but Eddie goes nice and steady, in fact slightly slower than my usual pace. May improve my fuel economy a bit. Speaking of which I’ve gained on average another 1-2 km/ltr since driving barefoot!! Think it may please Maggie, after all you wouldn’t caress a woman with gloves on would you?
Scenery nothing too special, the usual Africa bush.
Think the fuel tank sender unit is on the way out as the gauge is wandering around like a swingometer at general election time.
Camped at Tsumkwe lodge.

Tuesday 12th June
Tsumkwe – Sigarette (Kahdum Park)

Into the fuel station in town to find they have no fuel, the only fuel in town is at the lodge, so back we go.
Got both petrol and diesel (from the barrel) but it was expensive at 5 rand a litre. 
The sign directing us to Kahdum park read:- “ 65 km’s to Sigarette camp, 4X4 vehicles only, engage low range immediately, min 2 vehicles, enter at your own risk!” great I thought, what’s this going to be like? As it turned out the track was pretty good, patches of soft sand, but with low tyres and a steady throttle Maggie just cruised along.
Into the park and straight of to a waterhole for lunch. Saw Kudu and Elephant within 20 mins of stopping.
Back to campsite. It’s my sort of site, no fences, just a spot in the sand. They do have showers though. Run off a wood fired geezer, excellent, scalding hot.
Back to water hole for sunset. Wow, wow, wow!! Over 50 Elephants turned up for a “sundowner” it was a sight I’ll never forget, those huge animals silhouetted in the setting sun. Clouds of dust and the almost constant showers of water as they cooled off. We sat there gob smacked for 2 hours. Oh, I like this place, the “Lonely Planet” says, “there’s nowhere else like it in Africa.” I can’t really be a judge to that, having seen so little, but it certainly is a beautiful park.

Wednesday 13th June
Sigarette – Kahdum camp (Kahdum Park)

No real game to speak of, one Kudu and a warthog! But the driving did get interesting to say the least. The sand was really thick, and we’d hit the worst off it at midday, when it’s been nicely heated by the sun. It was hard going on the cars.
Camped at Kahdum which was OK, but I preferred Sigarette.
The only other visitors in the park are a couple of diplomats in their flashy new Land Cruisers. Judging by their attitude they want to be left alone. Fine with us!

Thursday 14th June
Kahdum – Divumdu (Bagani)

A tough drive, the thickest and softest sand to date, but at least it’s not too bumpy. You can keep up a reasonable speed. Took 3 hours to do 65 km’s
Along the Caprivi strip to Divundu. NOTE:- there is no longer a convoy from Rhundu eastwards. The convoy doesn’t start til you cross the river at Divundu.
I got Diesel in Divundu, but there was no petrol for Eddie, and they wern’t expecting any for 2 weeks!
Camped at Popa Falls. Unfortunately the river is still flooded, so we couldn’t get to the falls. We made do with a walk along the riverbank instead.
Had a Braai and cooked all our meat, ready for Botswana. (you can’t take uncooked meat in)

Friday 15th June 
Popa Falls (Bagani) – Tsodilo Hills
Back to Divindu for provisions and Fuel. I’d decided to fill up everything, Aux tank and jerry cans. I wanted to get rid of my remaining N$ and I wasn’t sure what the fuel prices were like in Botswana. This turned out to be a mistake!
Gave a policewoman a lift to the border. She said that most of the problems along the Caprivi strip were Namibians seeking independence, not as I’d been told Angolan rebels.
The border was relatively painless, but I was clobbered for 1.8 Pula (40 Us cents!) for the fuel I was carrying in the Jerry cans. I only declared 30 litres, good job they took my word for it, as I had at least 70 in the Jerry cans. It’s crazy isn’t it you can carry as much as you like in your main and reserve tanks, but anything visible is a recipe for disaster. I should have known better and hid the cans inside the car. Oh well, I’m sure 40 cents wont break the bank. It’s more the principal that bugs me.
We hunted down some Fuel for Eddie at the first town over the border. Took us an hour of asking directions and scouring the back streets to find it. I’ve seen fuel sold from a barrel, but never from a 15 ltr bucket.
The road to Tsodilo hills was, as the guide book said “ horrid”. It was impossible to do more than 10 km’s an hour maximum. Soft sand, and bumpy. After a lot of hunting around the gearbox I found that 2nd – 3rd low range was the least uncomfortable for man and machine. It was still like riding a horse though!
Wild camped below one of the hills. Early to bed, another long day in the saddle!

Saturday 16th June
Tsodilo Hills

There are 4 hills at Tsodilo, (Male, Female, Child and the north hill) normally you wouldn’t look twice at them, but the location (flat all around) and the rock paintings make them something special. The whole place has a strange “aura” surrounding it.
In the morning we walked the Rhino trail where we hunted down some of the rock paintings, and I did my “seed, fruit and rock” collecting thing! After a bite to eat we decided to climb the Male Hill, the biggest (of course). It was quite a climb, but the view over the surrounding countryside gave the impression of being marooned on an island.
Wild camped at the same spot as last night. A park’s official tried to encourage us to come along to the official site, but Eddie’s smooth talking meant we could stay put, and saved us a few Pula.

Sunday 17th June
Tsodilo Hills – Etsha 13

We took the short-cut out of the hills. 50 km’s, as apposed to the 70 on the way in but at 10-15 km’s an hour it still took us 3 ½ hours to get out. Still it was well worth it.
On to Etsha 13. I’d been told this would be a good place to take a trip into the delta. The campsite was idyllic. I set up camp, and immediately set off to the jetty to do a spot of fishing and have a sundowner.

Monday 18th June
Etsha 13 (Guma Lagoon)

We set off on our boat trip at 8 o’clock. It was only 12 km’s to the main River, but it took over 2 hours to get there. The route took us through a narrow channel in the reeds. At times the channel was completely overgrown or blocked by reeds, and we had to do a bit of pushing and shoving to get through. 
We saw Hippos, Crocodiles, water lizards, Lots of birds: bee-eaters, kingfishers, cormorants, but the moment of the day was two African fish eagles squabbling over a catch. They performed a “dogfight” above our heads, but eventually the bird with the fish, had enough, and decided to drop its catch. The Fish was heading our way, but so was the other eagle. It plummeted towards us and plucked the fish out of the air above our heads. A breathtaking sight. I got so carried away I started to applaud!
The fishing was crap, but I didn’t care.
On our return to the lagoon the sky literally turned black with birds, thousands of swifts and swallows were swooping around searching for their evening meal. It was like a swarm of flies. Talking of which, don’t do a trip into the delta if you have an aversion to insects, they’re every where. In the narrow channels you become blanketed in small flies and bugs.
Another sundowner on the jetty before supper and bed.

Tuesday 19th June
Etsha 13 – Middle of nowhere!

Our next point of call was to be Drotsky’s Caves near the Namibian border.
We stopped off en-route at Etsha 6 for fuel and food. I’d been advised by the campsite owner at Etsha 13 to ignore the meat freezers in the CO-OP at Etsha 6 and head out the back to the large cool rooms. What a laugh I tripped over 2 lamb chops that had frozen to the floor. It was a real mess, boxes of frozen meat and chicken were strewn all over, but we still bought it, and dam good it was too.
We found the track to Drotsky’s caves and headed off into the bundu. The first 60 km’s were plain sailing, then things changed dramatically. No sand, but the track was so bumpy it was a nightmare. I’d never driven on anything like it and I now realized why they said it was the worst road in Botswana. If the track to Tsodilo hills was like riding a horse, then this was like a bucking bronco. You’d climb over one rise, and as the front wheels hit the bottom you could feel them being punched backwards by the next bump, at the same time the rear wheels were dropping into the rut, and were being forced forwards. The result was the car was being bounced around like a pinball. I tried everything I could, every possible gear and combination of speeds, but nothing helped. The engine was constantly winding up and letting go as you clear a bump. To aggravate the problem it was impossible to keep a steady foot on the throttle as you’re being thrown around. I tried a spot of yoga, jamming my foot between the pedal and door in an attempt to keep the throttle still, but it was no use. At best we could manage 6 km an hour. To add to our troubles the track unexpectedly turned north into dense bush. This really slowed us down. Now not only did we have the “ups and downs” to contend with, but we had to wind our way through the bush. After another hours driving we decided to camp up for the night and review the situation. None of our maps showed the track heading north for any distance, and we became concerned that we’d missed a turn or were on completely the wrong route. At any rate if it continued like this all the way to the caves it would be a 2-3 day trip. That’s OK, but we’d have to come out again along the same route, not much fun. There was also the issue of fuel, did we have enough for such a journey?

Wednesday 20th June
The Bundu – Maun

Having slept on the problem we decided to head back and see if we’d missed a turn somewhere. There were two possible places, but both proved to be dead ends. Back on the main road we realized that the nearest fuel now was at Maun, and without permits for the Kalahari heading any further south would be a waste of time.
Booked Maggie in for a “Doctors” appointment in Maun and went in search of the Sedia Hotel. I’d been told it was a nice place, and cheap. Cheap it certainly was US$ 1 pp a night for camping. Clean ablutions and a lovely swimming pool to cool off in. We can’t believe how they can charge so little!
I spoke to a guide at the Hotel bar that evening, and asked him about driving to the caves. He looked at me a bit strange, and said “drive, drive no one drives there, you must fly in” I can’t believe it there must be a route in somewhere. If anyone has done it please let me know.

That's it.... more to follow!