Diary: May 2001
Quick update since leaving Zim:-
Zim was in a bad state when I left. I had to buy some diesel from a local farmer in Chiredzi to get me to the border at Beitbridge.
There hadn’t been any fuel in the country for three weeks!
First stop in South Africa was Pretoria to see Sannelie (the girl I travelled
in Egypt with). I had to freight some curios etc back to UK and Sannelie had arranged to get Maggie’s gearbox fixed for me. To my surprise Sannelie changed her mind, and said she’d
like to join me. This was good news for me as I was looking for some company on the trip. However I’d have to wait a few weeks
while she worked her notice at work. It took a while to get Maggie sorted and I stayed with friends of Sannelie’s- Doreen, Roy and
their daughter Margie and her two girls, Simone and Tessa. I couldn’t thank them enough for their hospitality. I was made to feel
really at home. I especially enjoyed Doreen’s wicked sense of humour, and we seemed to hit it of very well. Again, guys and girls if
you’re reading this I hope you are all well, and I miss you all very much. Will pop in and see you all again soon one day.
Once Maggie was fixed I still had some time to burn off, so I spent time in the Kruger, Swaziland, Goldengate Highlands and the
Karoo national park.
Picked Sannelie up at her parents place in Outshoorn and we set off to Cape Town. I thought as I was basically starting again I
way as well start from the beginning, and besides I had some things I wanted to do in Cape Town. So that’s a brief update. Here
we go again……….
Tuesday 15th May
Cape Town – Paternoster
What a start! Sannelie and I had a blazing row before we’d even set off. The drive up the West Coast was “frosty” to say the least.
At Paternoster I had a wonderful seafood curry at a little café while watching the sun go down. I still don’t know which was the
best, the meal or the sunset.
We camped up for the night at a superb campsite at St Helena bay (Highly Recommended)
I did my diary while Sannelie wrote her last will and testament, sobering stuff!
An hours stargazing and bed. I must get a star map, as I seem to spend a lot of time looking at the sky.
Wednesday 16th May
Paternoster – Cape Town – Paternoster
Another row! This time it ended with Sannelie asking me to take her back to Cape Town. I won’t go into the details as to what
went wrong. That would not be fair on Sannelie. You would only be getting my point of view, but she was not the same person that
I traveled through Egypt with, and when I dropped her off in Cape Town I knew it was the right decision. I felt like a great weight
had been lifted from me, and I was “footloose and fancy free” again. Yes, I’d wasted a lot of time and money waiting for her, but
hindsight is a wonderful thing.
Quick charge back to Paternoster for sunset and a Potjie on the beach.
Thursday 17th May
Paternoster – Lambert’s Bay
Woke late and trundled slowly up the coast, stopping at Eland’s Bay for a play in the sand. Arrived in Lambert’s Bay, and did a
bit of shopping before setting up camp. Crashed out on the beach for a few hours. Topping up the tan, reading and snoozing.
I would have liked to stay here longer; there’s a lot to do here. But with all the messing around I’ve only got 2 days to get out of
South Africa before my visa expires.
Friday 18th May
Lambert’s Bay – Springbok
Up early and went to see the Cape Ganets on Bird Island. There’s a nice visitor’s centre on the Island, very informative. I checked
out all the info, and then watched in amazement as all the behaviors I’d just read about were acted out in front of me. Amazing to
watch the birds doing their “sky pointing” and “bill scissoring”.
Along the backroads to Newerus then up the A7 to Springbok, with a few photoshots of Namaqualand in-between. I’d have loved
to seen the place in the spring when it’s carpeted with flowers, but that’s something to come back for I suppose.
Got the oil changed in Springbok, then off to find a campsite. A South African Overland couple was at the site, but judging by their
gruff response to my hello I’ll leave them alone!
I’m really excited about Namibia it’s one of the African countries I’ve been really looking forward to.
Thoughts on South Africa:- Beautiful country, very diverse and a wonderful lifestyle. But could I live in a fortress with 6ft high walls
and razor wire, I think not.
Saturday 19th May
Springbok – Ai Ais (Namibia)
Left Springbok early to get through the border at Voilsdrif. Had a “head to head “ with the woman from VAT reclaim about some
camping gear I’d bought in South Africa, but she relented after a while and agree to forward my cheque to the UK.
Immediately Namibia is all I’d been hoping for. Barren, rugged, desolate, I love it!
Took the gravel road to Ai Ais where I saw my first Springbok. What beautiful animals, a couple ran along beside me for
400metres or so. It was quite something to see them in motion, so agile and fleet of foot. My heart leapt every time they sprang
over a boulder or bush.
Arrived at Ai Ais and set up for the night. There are quite a few overlanders here, and I’ll see if any are going my way tomorrow.
Oh yes, this bit is not for the squeamish! (Skip a paragraph mother) I went off down to the river looking for some firewood. I was
scrambling down some rocks when I felt something prick the sole of my foot. I tried to back up, but it was too late. All my weight
had shifted forwards and I slammed my foot down in excruciating pain. A thorn had gone through my sandals and was now
sticking out the top of my foot! I sat down, cursing my stupidity and slowly, very slowly pulled the thorn out (4 inches long!). I
should have known better and put my boots on first, but I won’t be so hasty next time. I bathed my foot in hot water and savlon to
hopefully draw out any “debris”. Needless to say I didn’t sleep a lot that night the pain was excruciating.
Sunday 20th May
Ai Ais – Hobas – Ais Ais
Bathed my foot again and hobbled around for most of the morning re-arranging Maggie. Sannelie had moved a lot of stuff around,
and now I didn’t know where things were. By 2 o’clock my foot was feeling good enough for me to drive to Hobas and have a look
at the Fish River Canyon. It was a short drive thankfully and I only needed to use the clutch a few times!
What a “Jaw-Dropper” the Canyon is. I drove to 4 different viewpoints and sat in Awe at each one. Stayed till sunset and headed
back to Ai Ais.
An overland truck had arrived in my absence. I sought out the driver. Brian, a nice Scotsman. and we chatted for an hour or so
before I turned in.
Monday 21st May
Ai Ais – Aus
Back down south for 20 Km’s or so then along the 4x4 route to Rosh Pina. It was a nice drive, nothing extreme, but beautiful
scenery. Did some more “wooding” along the way. (With boots on!)
Stopped off in Aus for a beer on the verandah of the Bahnhof hotel. It was very relaxing, and I could’ve sat there all day watching
the kids pushing old tyres along the streets.
Camped just outside Aus at another beautiful site. I climbed a nearby hill to watch sunset, then set about a braai.
Tuesday 22nd May
Aus – Luderitz
Short drive to Luderitz. Where I booked a “sunset – sunrise” photo pass for Kolmanskop (ghost town) the next day. Went looking
for a kettle, but the only shop in town with kettles was closed for a week as the owner had just died!
I’d wanted to do a 4x4 trail into the desert, but at R300 p/p a day it’s too much especially when it’s self-catering. All you’re paying
for is the guide, and the privilege of driving in a concession area. They must be raking it in. They had 8 vehicles (16 people) going
off on Thursday for a 4-day trip, good money when their only outlay is the Diesel for the guide vehicle. I wonder how much the
Namibian tourism department is creaming off the top!
Toured the diamond coast recreational area for a few hours taking in the Flamingos, seals, penguins etc
The only campsite in town is on Shark Island and it’s bloody expensive (N$85 a night) I checked out the local backpackers, but
judging by the “No Vacancies” sign, Brian and his group in the overland truck have taken the place over for the night. Will try again
tomorrow.
Wednesday 23rd May
Luderitz – Kolmanskop – Luderitz
I was up and gone by 6 o’clock. I wanted to get to Kolmanskop before sunrise. I made it in plenty of time, and set of exploring the
place. I got through 3 rolls of film in as many hours. It really is a photographer’s dream.
Did the guided tour, which was brief but informative. Just the way I like it! Apparently the richest woman in town was the
shopkeeper; she accepted diamonds as payment. The place was so “littered” with diamonds that when people ran out of cash
they would just crawl around on their hands and knees in the moonlight picking up a few carats!
Back to Luderitz to check out the backpackers. I was right - Brian and his posse had been there, but they were gone and the
place was now deserted. Much better value at N$40 for a house to yourself, than N$85 for windy campsite.
Did some quick E-mailing in town. Then into the sportsbar to catch up on some rugby results, well that was my excuse for a few
beers anyway!
Met Aika, a Dutch girl at the backpackers. She’s heading to Sousesvlie, so we’ve teamed up for a while.
Thursday 24th May
Luderitz – Kolmanskop – Luderitz
Took Aika to Kolmanskop for a tour. Had a look around the museum that I’d overlooked yesterday. The info on diamond mining
was fascinating, only 0.001% of the material they mine “bears fruit” a lot of effort for a little shiny pebble. But then again the little
pebbles are rather valuable.
It’s a public holiday in Namibia today, and Luderitz is just like Kolmanskop, a ghost town. Everything is closed. So I used the
time to do some diary work.
Four overland vehicles arrived at the backpackers. They turned out to be a film crew
(http://www.voetspoor.co.za ) who where
undertaking a route around the lighthouses of southern Africa. A strange basis for a TV I thought! I’d seen and read about their
previous trip, a journey along the old elephant trails, from Namibia in the west to Mozambique in the East.
I asked them how much they were paying to get into the concession area with their vehicles and equipment. Nothing! The people
at the 4x4-tour centre wanted R7,000 for one day, so they went straight to NAMDEB who said, “No Problem” we’ll supply you with
an escort for free! Apparently the 4x4-trail Company are not the only people with a concession for that area, but they’re the only
people using it. A bit of competition is required here I think! And perhaps if anyone else out there is considering the 4x4 route it
may be an idea to speak to NAMDEB before parting with too much money.
Pizza and Salad in town with Aika.
Friday 25th May
Luderitz – Sarus
Met an English girl, Lisa. She’s doing some photography work for the Namibian tourist board. She wants to go to Etosha, so we
tentatively arranged to meet up in Windhoek where I’m dropping Aika off. If things carry on like this I won’t be travelling alone for
too long!
Back to Aus, then north towards Sesriem.
I lost a sandal along the way! I’ve taken to driving barefoot, and have been putting the sandals down the side of the seat. When I
stopped for another “Kodak” moment it must have fallen out. Bit annoyed when I found out, but that was 200 km’s later, and I
wasn’t going to turn back for it.
We stopped at a guest farm (Sarus) for the night. It was blowing a gale and cold too, so we took advantage of a static caravan. At
N$ 40 p/p it was only N$5 more than camping, and much warmer.
We cooked veggie curry on an old range cooker. Good fun, but difficult to regulate the heat!
Saturday 26th May
Sarus – Sesriem
Had a quick look around Duwib castle, (Don’t bother!) then on towards Sesriem. Aika drove most of the way. This allowed me to
really soak up the scenery; it just keeps getting better and better. The combination of colours and shapes is magical.
Apparently we’re quite fortunate at the moment; the recent rains have made things much greener than normal for the time of year.
The tourist board campsite at Sesriem was full, which was just as well, it was expensive N$75 p/p. 1km down the road at the
Sousesvlie 4x4 rental you can camp for half that price, so we did.
Met Lisa again, she looked a bit shaken. The guys she’s travelling with rolled their hire car yesterday. They’re all fine, but the cars
not so pretty.
Aika’s vegetarian so I did a veggie Braai for her and lots of meat for me. The price and quality of meat in Namibia and South Africa
is unbelievable, I eat every mouthful with a little grin on my face thinking of you guys back in “foot and mouth” troubled UK!
Sunday 27th May
Sesriem – Sousesvlie – Naukluft
Up at 5.30. Coffee, packed, and off to the gate for opening time (6 o’clock). Drove like furry to get to Sousesvlie while the light was
still good. It’s crazy they won’t let you in till after sunrise, and you have to be out before sunset. It’s 65 km's to Souseslvie and if
you’re not in a 4x4 you still have a 5km walk to the main dunes. By the time we got to Sousesvlie I had about 1 hour of decent
light before it got too harsh for good photos.
We climbed the big dune, I did a bit of overtaking and managed to be first to the top, much to the annoyance of a group of
Germans. We ran down the back of the dune, which was a really good laugh.
It was fun to be driving in soft sand again. I didn’t bother to let the tyres down or need low ratio. Maggie walked through it, unlike a
few Toyotas I saw being given a helping push. In honesty though they were very heavily laden.
On the way back we went in search of Deadvlei, another photographers paradise. A pan of cracked mud, scattered with dead
trees, the odd skull and the red dunes as a backdrop.
Two rolls of film were enough for one day, and we headed off towards Naukluft.
Beware the road to Naukluft has a few hidden surprises. After the first “workout” for Maggie’s shocks and springs I’d learnt my
lesson, approach each rise with caution. They drop away very steeply, and the culverts in the bottom are treacherous. This so far
was the only bad stretch of road I’d come across. The rest of the roads in Namibia have been excellent, well graded and with good
signing.
Park looks beautiful. We’re going to walk one of the trails tomorrow. There’s also a 4x4 trail that they’ll let you on with just one
vehicle, wow! I was tempted, but I fancy a walk. The distances in Namibia are huge, and a break from behind the wheel is called
for. I think to avoid getting travel weary, and to fully appreciate the country you should allow plenty of time for some good “R&R”
between stages.
Sudza/Pap with Veggie Bolognaise sauce for supper. We mixed some dough, and made mini Pizzas for starters: - bread,
bolognaise sauce and a cheese topping. Excellent.
Monday 28th May
Naukluft – Solitaire
A leisurely start to the day. Breakfast, and off to walk the Olive Trail.
It started with a steep ascent onto the Plateau. The views on the way up were wonderful. Then it follows a riverbed that cuts its
way through the landscape. Within 3km’s you find yourself in a beautiful canyon. Sheer walls rise above you on which cling Cacti
and kakobaums.
If you don’t have the time to do the Fish river canyon, then I’d highly recommend this. It’s only 10km’s (took us 4 hrs including
lunch and photostops) There’s one section where you have to use a chain rope, but other than that and a bit of clambering over
boulders it’s straightforward walking.
Left park at 3 o’clock and headed to Solitaire. Another “one horse” town and I think that bolted a long time ago! The campsite was
behind the petrol station, where we met the owner, Moose. He’s a really friendly guy (you must try his home baked cakes and
bread, delicious). The petrol station is the only thing in Solitaire, and it incorporates the shop, café, campsite, and garage. You
name it and Moose does it!
Couldn’t be bothered with the tent, and slept under the stars for a change.
Tuesday 29th May
Solitaire – Walvis Bay – Swakopmund
Again the drive to Walvis Bay was diverse, open grassland, followed by rolling hills then a “moonscape” off rock and sand.
Had a quick look at dune 7 and off to the lagoon to check out the Flamingoes, Pelicans etc. I’d never seen so many birds in one
place before. The wind was ferocious again. How the Flamingos manage to stand on those skinny little legs of theirs in such a
wind is beyond me. They stand on one leg at a time, which’s just showing off!
We decided against camping in such a wind and sought out a backpackers (Karen’s Attic) in the centre of Swakopmund. Nice
place, clean, safe parking for Maggie, scalding hot showers and only N$35 a night for a dorm bed.
Aika took me out for a “Thank You” meal in town. Fish stew with rice, very nice! We had a bottle of wine, and after a few glasses
Aika was “half cut” which made for an amusing walk home.
The buildings in Swakopmund reflect its German origins, and its full of tourists from the “Fatherland”. I like it, think we’ll stay for a
day or two.
That's it.... more to follow!