Diary: November 

Wednesday 1st November  
Hurgada – Luxor

Breakfast, shopping for postcards etc then back to the bus station for a bus to Luxor. Confusion reigns! Even the drivers aren’t sure where they should be going.

Got our first view of the Nile at Qena. The timing was perfect, the setting sun reflecting off the water and the avenues of palm trees mirrored on the river’s edge. Quite beautiful, it reminded me of rainforest scenes from “The Deerhunter”.

Fought of the various hotel and taxi touts at the bus station. My “Grumpy Ted” look seems to work wonders! I had one cab driver scurrying back to his car with a quick squint of the eyebrows.

Found our hotel the “Oasis” it’s cheap and reasonably clean, but more importantly has hot running water!

Beef casserole at a street side restaurant, and off into the Souq to do some souvenir hunting. I still wasn’t feeling 100% and the constant hassle wasn’t what I needed. I headed back to the hotel, only to realize halfway back that I didn’t have a key! I made do with a moonlit stroll along the Nile for an hour or so before heading back. I wasn’t flavour of the month on my return. Bill and Sannelie were a bit concerned.

Thursday 2nd November  
Luxor

Bad nights sleep! The street noise was unbearable and it sounded like someone was taking a “kango” hammer to the hotel foundations at 6 o’clock in the morning. Breakfast did nothing to raise my spirits, fig jam, processed cheese and stale rolls.

Storage space in Luxor must be at a premium, any area of the hotel which wasn’t being used for sleeping or sitting was packed with crates and boxes of various food stuffs, long-life milk, biscuits etc. The hotel owner had a good sideline managing Luxor’s food distribution business.

Bill and Sannelie went to change some cash and travelers cheques while I had a haircut and tried to find some fake student ID cards. It appeared we were too late in the season and the last ones had gone a month ago.

Next stop on our whirlwind tour of Egypt was Luxor temple. The entrance, although not in pristine condition was still very imposing. It was easy to imagine how intimidating the gateway would have looked in its day. After 2-3 hours we’d seen most of the site and were suitably impressed, to say the least.

After a bit of pasta and pizza the next job was to find a cheap “Feluca” trip along the Nile. With all the skippers hawking for business it’s not difficult to find a boat, but getting the price down to something reasonable is a major exercise in haggling.

The trip was very nice, but our skipper chose a poor spot for sunset, not too happy!

Back at the hotel I managed to coax Billy and Sannelie into going out for a drink, it was a long walk and expensive. Not by UK standards but even so we called it a night after two drinks and returned to the hotel.

Sannelie got the “munchies” at 11 o’clock so we went off for a Macdonald’s followed by a moonlit stroll along the Nile. It’s a beautiful river, much cleaner than I’d expected.

Friday 3rd November  
Luxor – West Bank – Luxor

Up early to meet our minibus and guide (Aladin!) who would be showing us around the Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, and Hasphasute Temple. (Killings of 1997!)

Aladin was a nice guy, but he kept repeating everything 4 or 5 times, which just made me switch off.

In the Valley of the Kings we saw 3 tombs. One each from the 18th, 19th and 20th Dynasties. The Murals in the first tomb were very basic, just black and red line drawings. Even so I found them some of the most interesting through their simplicity. The other two tombs were far more colourful, too much so I thought.

The temple of Hasphasute was huge, 70% had been restored, and not too sympathetically. Most of it looked like it had been built yesterday, which of course it had! I know some people struggle to visualize what some of these ancient sites looked like, but this was too much. I couldn’t help feeling that I was looking at some “Bank’s” latest city centre branch.

The Valley of the Queens was also very impressive. It’s not easy to describe the inside of a tomb. As no photos were allowed, you’ll just have to go and see for yourselves or even better and far less hassle get a nice coffee table book!

The tour was interspersed with the usual sales tactics i.e. a trip to an alabaster factory and papyrus shop. None of them for me, I can’t stand the papyrus paintings, they’re the height of “kitsch,” sorry dad! (He bought me a papyrus from the Tutankamen exhibition in Aberdeen just before I left!)

Aladin gave us all a bit of a quiz at the end of the day, and was very upset when not one of us could answer his first question. I know now why he repeats everything 4-5 times! Sorry Aladin, repetition is not the way to go. How about trying some fancy graphic presentations, they seemed to be all the rage in the office before I left the UK. (God, I’m glad to be away from all that bull****!)

Back across the river we had a quick bite to eat, then it was siesta time. It’d been a long day on our feet. I couldn’t sleep and went out for a drink at a street side café. I got to take part in one of my favourite pastimes, “people watching.”

Poverty and squalor is everywhere, rotting meat and veg bring with them the inevitable swarm of flies. Even so I like the atmosphere in the back streets, it’s vibrant, there’s no touting or hassle, and the people are genuine. The men behave like children always shouting and screaming. It’s not unusual to see a scuffle breakout, but it’s generally just good natured back slapping going a bit too far.

Saturday 4th November  
Luxor

Not having had enough exercise tromping around the west bank yesterday we decided to walk to Karnak Temple, a quick coke to rehydrate us and into the ruins.

Wow! What a place, of all the ruins I’ve seen so far this one definitely gets the top marks in the most impressive pillars/columns category. The Columns are so big and so tall I couldn’t see how on earth they’d raised them, I’ve since read up on the subject, and it’s quite simple. Instead of raising each section from the ground with cranes etc they simply raised the ground around the column:- ie they put the first sections in place, then filled around them with soil and rock and hauled the next sections up onto the “new” ground level via earth ramps. Place the sections in position and repeat the process again and again. A case of “If the mountain wont come to Mohamed, then….”

The site is vast, and every square inch seems to be decorated with hieroglyphics of one type or another. The “man hours” of work involved in the artwork alone is staggering. Put this together with the time and labour involved in constructing the temple, and you have a truly staggering display of human ingenuity.

As we were leaving I was wondering what exactly possessed these people to put such time and effort into a building whose sole purpose was the worship of gods. The answer was obvious, They believed! And they believed “Big Time”

Left feeling a bit over awed to say the least.

We got a cab back into town and ate at the “salt & bread” restaurant. Another recommendation from the “loony pamphlet” It wasn’t great, but it was close to the train station. Bill’s going to take the train to Aswan tomorrow and wants to get a ticket now. Sannelie wants to go by bus, so I’ll tag along with her.

Sannelie and I spent the evening scouring Luxor for a decent cup of coffee. That’s not quite true the coffee is fine it’s proper milk that’s hard to find.

Sunday 5th November  
Luxor – Aswan

Bill had long gone by the time we got up.

We had our usual morning coffee at one of the cafes in the back streets. It was here that we watched a stunning example of Egyptian daily life. I’d noticed a guy walking up the street with a goat over his shoulder, nothing too unusual there, it was what followed that was staggering. A small crowed gathered round him as he shouted out his intentions. To our horror he started hacking up the goat in the middle of the road, and I mean in the middle of the road. The asphalt was his chopping board. The crowd grew bigger and a traffic jam soon followed as drivers left their vehicles to buy a few bits of “roadside goat.” Before we’d finished our coffee it was all over, the crowd dispersed and all that was left was a few scraps and a huge bloody stain in the road. Not the most hygienic butchery methods I’ve seen. Especially if you consider that the street is treated as an open sewer by most people!

The bus to Aswan was late and packed. We were the only westerners onboard and Sannelie the only Woman. It was an awful journey, and a typical display of the way Egyptian men regard and treat western women. The bus was so full Sannelie and I started off sitting on the step next to the driver. Seats became available as guys got off. I took the first seat, hoping that Sannelie would be left to sit with the driver, but as more and more seats became available they were all clambering for her to sit next to them. I told her to stay put, I needn’t have worried she wasn’t going anywhere! I could feel all the eyes staring at her, and it was obvious a few obscenities were being uttered her way, thankfully in Arabic! Sannelie knew by now what to expect from Egyptian men, and was dressed accordingly. She even had her hair tied back under her hat, making her look like a bit of a “Tom Boy” but even dressing conservatively wasn’t enough.

What amazed me was that they all knew we were travelling together, but not one man on the bus moved over to free up two seats so we could sit together. I found that quite shocking and very sad. Had I been travelling with Billy or even alone I wouldn’t have seen this side of things and would have had no concerns.

The portrayal of western women on imported American TV shows as “sex symbols” and “loose women” does nothing to help the situation. I’ve also seen a lot of western women dressed totally inappropriately for a muslim country, they’re not helping the situation.

Travelling in Egypt with a woman has been a real eye opener, Any women out there considering doing Egypt alone “DON’T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT.”

After 4 ½ Hours we arrived in Aswan. Met up with Billy as arranged at the “Oraby” hotel. At one of the riverside restaurants that night we bumped into Lee (Dahab diving) and his girlfriend Kim. They’re heading north again to Alexandria and then to the desert oasis of Siwa.

Had a stroll around the Souq and ended up buying a Nubian mask. I paid too much for it, but I really liked it, so I’m not too fussed.

Monday 6th November  
Aswan

Bill, being a civil engineer was keen to see the high dam. I know I should have gone too, but I was having a bit of an apathy attack, and couldn’t really give a ****!

Took Sannelie to the shop I bought my mask from. I knew she wanted a knife for her father and I’d seen a really nice one there. I bet Sannelie another G&T she wouldn’t get it for less than E£200, needless to say I lost again. It’ll be cheaper to buy a bottle of Gin at this rate.

Met up with Bill after lunch. We decided to try our luck with another sunset feluca trip along the Nile. Our captain got a bit too adventurous in the backwaters around Elephantine island.  got stuck in a narrow channel with a strong current and very little wind. There was no room to turn around and we had to sail out backwards, quite a feat! All this messing around meant we were in a poor spot for sunset again.

Popped into one of the local hangouts for some Koshery. Followed by a Coffee and Sheesha session on a riverboat café. I bumped into “Captain Jamaica”, a locally renowned Feluca skipper. Arranged to meet him the next day to sort out a trip to Edfu.

Tuesday 7th November  
Aswan

Took the ferry (5p) to Elephantine Island with Billy. We had a look around the Nubian villages, real third world stuff, but the people are much easier going than the mainland,

Went to meet “Captain Jamacia”, he was out on “business”, we had to make do with his brother “Cabin boy Jamaica” A group of Aussies were organising a trip to Edfu, but they’re a bit too young for us! We’ve asked to go in a smaller group (max 6). Were told to return a 5 o’clock with copies of our passports for registration with the police. All tourist movement in Egypt is tightly controlled, roadblocks, convoys, designated buses and trains. It’s all a result of the ’97 massacre in the Valley of the Kings. Makes the terrorist job a lot easier if you ask me, he knows which trains and buses to attack!

We’ll have to wait another day if we want to go in a smaller group. It’s no problem for me, what’s the rush.

Bill and I went off for a beer. Two was enough for me, hadn’t drunk for a while and it went straight to my head! Still it’s cheaper that way.

I’d heard the food on the Feluca trips can be pretty grim, so we did an evening shopping spree for some “munchies” fruit, biscuits etc.

Sannelie has changed her departure date to the 18th, which has left me in a bit of a quandary. Bill’s had it up to the back teeth with Egypt, can’t say I blame him! He wants out ASAP, but after the bus trip to Aswan I don’t feel good about leaving Sannelie alone in Cairo. What to do? I’ll mull it over tomorrow.

I bought a really brightly coloured Nubian hat in the Souq. It won’t keep much of the sun off my head, but I like it, it’s rather “loud” to say the least!

Wednesday 8th November  
Aswan

Slept really well for once, so I laid in till 9 o’clock. Had breakfast and took the ferry back over to Elephantine Island. It’s a nice place to get away from the hassle of Aswan.

The flights thing is bothering me. It’s £600  Egypt Air to Jo’berg. A lot of money, and I want to see Addis Ababa. Needed some space for a while. Left Bill and Sannelie to do some sun bathing and went for a stroll. I found an old guy with a small Feluca who offered to take me to Kitcherer Island (Botanical Gardens) for E£2. The gardens were beautiful, very well maintained and it was quiet which gave me a chance to think.

I’m not too happy about it, but I may leave Sannelie in Cairo and head off to Addis Ababa with Billy. Anyway that’s my preferred choice. Will see what Cairo is like first.

Had lunch at the “Mona Lisa” restaurant and updated my diary.

Back at the hotel Sannelie and I noticed they’ve got a baby crocodile in a glass tank. Sannelie’s not happy about it (she’s a zoologist) and had a heated conversation with the owner about its well-being. I went outside and found a rock to put in its tank. It clambered on the rock immediately, as if to prove a point. Must have been freezing being in the water all day. We’ve named it “Clarence” and spent the rest of the evening discussing a covert operation to liberate “Clarence” from the clutches of the wicked hotel owner.

Thursday 9th November  
Aswan – Komumbo

Met up with our Feluca and fellow passengers:- Paulo and Truscha from Mexico and Damien from Yugoslavia. Loaded supplies, beer very important! and set sail. We’d only been going 30 mins when we had to stop to register with the river police. This turned out to be the usual “let’s be as awkward as possible” stuff, no thanks to our skipper. The Mexicans have named him “Santiago” don’t know if it has any relevance, but I’m sure it’s going to stick.

A Feluca has to be the best way to see the Nile. You’re away from all the hassle, it’s quiet and blissfully slow. As we passed the cruise ships you could see the passengers watching us go by, with I like to think a touch of jealousy in their eyes. OK they have all the facilities and staff to wait on them, but you still feel isolated on a big boat, not part of the river.

We’d been told we would have to stop after sunset, (no boats are allowed to travel at night) This turned out to be a load of crap! We sailed on in the moonlight for another 3 hours.

Food on the boat was basic, vegetarian, but tasty and loads of it We all slept on board at night, 8 of us on a tiny boat. It was so cramped, like sardines in a tin.

Friday 10th November  
Komumbo – Edfu

I had a bad nights sleep. (none!) and my back was killing me.

We’d stopped for the night just outside Komumbo, so it was a short sail to the temple. Not quite Karnak, but some of the carvings and relief’s were in pristine condition, as if they’d been done yesterday, which I was assured they hadn’t! The temple was dedicated to two gods, Horus the falcon headed god and Kobek the Crocodile headed god. Their images were to be seen everywhere, and in one room they even had some mummified crocodiles! The ancient Egyptians didn’t just mummify people. So far I’ve seen mummified crocodiles, lizards, birds, monkeys, everything except donkeys. Judging by the way the Egyptians treat their beasts of burden I doubt they held them in high regard even then.

Set sail for Edfu, but were becalmed for a couple of hours, which made for a pleasant change. We were in a lovely spot, and it gave Bill a chance to have a swim!

Going back to the donkey thing for a moment. If there is such a thing as reincarnation I’d like to see the donkey come back as a Giraffe, and the owners as bettles. Unfortunately they wont know what it’s like to be beaten and kicked every day of their lives, but one day they will be shat on from a great height!

Sailed on til 7 o’clock, supper and bed. I opted to sleep on the prow of the boat, there’s more room and it’s better for my back.

We’d spent 2 days and 2 nights on the boat and it was fantastic. A lifetime’s ambition finally realised, and every bit as dreamlike as I’d hoped for. A couple of days that will stay with me for the rest of mine.

Saturday 11th November  
Edfu – Luxor

The lack off a decent breeze meant we were 20 km’s short of Edfu, minibuses would take us the rest of the way. Shame, but that’s the way it goes!

The temple at Edfu was enormous, and very complete. The only disappointment was that 90% of the relief’s had been literally “defaced”. It was almost impossible to tell which god you’re looking at they’re all the same, hundreds of headless human forms.

We had to wait an hour for the police convoy to Luxor. Sannelie got a “dog” on because of one of my less than tactful remarks. Can’t think what I said but it made for a quiet journey, must try and remember it for future use!

The minibus drivers were on the “make” trying to take us to their friend’s hotels in town. A very heated conversation at the first hotel convinced our driver that he was on a looser, and he dropped us off at the “Oasis”

Went looking for a pub with satellite TV to watch the rugby. It wasn’t to be, but I did manage to down a few beers in the process!

We were going to get the train to Cairo, and thought it was a good idea to get the tickets before hand, just as well! The usual irksome dialogue ensued,

“Three second class tickets to Cairo please”

“The trains full”

“Are you sure? your colleague has just sold two tickets to that guy”

“Oh yes, quite sure it’s full”

“What about first class?”

“That’s full too”

“Can I speak to the manager?”

“Are you students?”

“No”

“Oh look 3 places have miraculously appeared”

God it’s so tiring. I don’t know why they do it, but you find it everywhere.

Sunday 12th November
Luxor – Cairo

Up at 6 o’clock to catch the train. It was good value at E£30 clean carriages, reclining seats and loads of legroom. The scenery stayed the same nearly all the way, palm trees, fields of corn and maize dotted with people sewing seeds or tiling the soil by hand. Lots of livestock, water buffalo, cattle, goats and the inevitable donkeys being “tortured” by their owners.

To avoid hassle with touts we’d learnt to choose a hotel from the “Loony Pamphlet” before arrival in a new place. When they tell you they know a better, cheaper one say you’ve been there before and have a reservation. This normally does the trick. You have to be careful with cabbies too, they’ll always try to take you to a “friends” hotel. You’ve got to be very firm, tell them exactly which hotel you want and make sure they know where it is. Tell them before getting in that you won’t pay unless they take you to the right place. They’ll still try it on, but a gentle “no thanks” generally works.

We had to do all the above in Cairo, and weren’t too surprised to find that the tourist police were also in on the “racket”

The hotel we chose this time had put its prices up, so we opted for another one near the Midan Tahir. Still not great, but we could look around in the morning.

Ate at an Italian restaurant in the Nile Hilton complex. It was the most expensive meal I’d eaten in months, six pounds for spaghetti carbonara and orange juice.

Monday 13th November
Cairo

Went looking for another hotel. I couldn’t spend another night on that soft bed. I found one right in the centre of town. The “Magic” hotel, it was clean, cheap and more importantly had satellite TV!

Sannelie’s going to change her flight date again! To the 16th this time. Bill and I are going to try and fly on the 17th, so Sannelie wont be left alone in Cairo. That’s a load of my mind. Just got to get the tickets now. The usual “carry on” It took 2 ½ hours, but we got them eventually. (£350 Cairo to Jo’berg with a 5 day stop over in Addis Ababa)

My next task in Cairo was to collect a package from the DHL office. What a nightmare! Took 2 hours to find it. Then there was no trace of my parcel, they didn’t recognise the reference number I’d been given. What next? After 1 ½ hours we tracked it down, it was still at Cairo airport! Arranged to collect it from their downtown offices in the morning.

It’d been a long and trying day. When Sannelie suggested souvenir hunting in the Souq I was tempted to give it a miss, but our time in Cairo was limited and I knew it was a case of “now or never”. We left Bill to an evening of CNN and got a taxi.

The Souq was huge, but not as “olde worlde” as Aleppo. I was on the look out for some leather cushions (camel) and Sannelie was after a few bits and bobs for relatives and a Sheesha pipe for herself. It was good fun haggling and most of the shopkeepers were genuinely helpful and welcoming which made for a pleasant change.

By 11 o’clock we’d burned off about E£300 and it was time to return to the hotel for a puff on Sannelie’s new sheesha pipe. I was knackered; it’d been a long day

Tuesday 14th October  
Cairo

Off to DHL to get my package. Only took 20 mins this time, but I was clobbered for E£135 import duty. Not too pleased about that, to say the least. The package was some extra cards for my digital camera. (Thanks once again Richard, they arrived just at the right time)

Taxi to Ethiopian Embassy for visa application. 10 mins and we were done. Bill will collect passports later in the day.

Spent the rest of the day in the Egyptian museum. It was packed, but tolerable. Statues, Mummies and fine art work everywhere. I found the display of  “everyday” items the most interesting, apart that is from the obvious Tutankhamen exhibits.

The room where the funery mask is held was mobbed initially, so I returned again later to find I had the place to myself. The Mask is said to be the most impressive single item held by any museum in the world. I was expecting a bit of an anticlimax, after all you can’t turn your head in Egypt without seeing a photo, painting or replica of it, but it just has to be seen to be believed, mind-blowing!

It may have been something to do with the lighting, but the eyes are spellbinding. They look straight back at you from 3,500 years, and at the same time looking through you into the future. It sent a real shiver down my spine, makes you feel kind of humbled and insignificant.

Quick KFC in town and off to find a barbers. The guy next to me in the barbers was busy skinning a chicken while having his hair cut! I wasn’t overly concerned, the “culture shock” of Egypt has worn off.

Did a bit of correspondence. Post cards etc Then Bill and I went off to get some Croissants for breakfast. Bill’s been in Egypt too long now, he can negotiate the traffic better than the locals, and that takes some doing! It took me 15 mins to cross 3 junctions around the Midan Tahir when I first got to Cairo. Some day soon Cairo will come to a standstill. The pollution is stifling.

Wednesday 15 November  
Cairo (Giza)

Managed to change US$ Travellers Cheques into US$ cash without commission, Wow! Bill went E-Mailing, and I ……  I can’t remember what I did! Anyway we met up again at midday to catch the bus to Giza.

Now the Pyramids, well I’ve run out of superlatives (as I’m sure you’ve noticed already!) The sheer size is mind-boggling. I don’t know how true it is, but the largest pyramid (Cephes) is said to contain enough stonework to construct a 2 metre high wall around the entire border of France!

Some people say that even with modern building techniques and equipment it would take years to erect such constructions. The precision and effort required is staggering. I think I’m another one of the sceptics who think another civilisation or even aliens built them. I can’t believe their descendents built Cairo! (And used a lot of the stone from the Pyramids to do it. Scandalous!)

The Police seemed to have been successful in keeping most of the hawkers away from the plateau, which made it almost bearable.

The Sphynx was a little disappointing. Mainly because access was severely restricted to one area. It   was packed and the light was poor for photos. Still improves postcard sales I suppose!

For a country with such a wealth of historical sites the facilities at all the places we’ve visited are a disgrace. There’s never a toilet, which results in the inevitable “stench” around the far corners of the sites. We’ve come to the conclusion that Egypt doesn’t deserve to be the custodian of some of the world’s most important archaeological remains.

A quick, and expensive beer at “The Oraby Hotel” (Cairo’s oldest hotel) Then back to town on the bus.

Bill and I went for a drink at the rooftop bar of the Nile Hilton. The second expensive beer of the day, but the view was surprising, even a city like Cairo can look attractive at night.

Walked Sannelie to the bus at 9 o’clock. Said our farewell’s and tentatively arranged to meet up in South Africa.

A few hours sleep before our taxi arrived to take us to the airport. Bus stops running at 11 o’clock so we’ve had to fork out E£30 for a cab as apposed to E£3 on the bus.

Thursday 16th November  
Cairo – Addis Ababa

We shared the taxi with a Swedish guy (Kalek) He’s also going to Addis Ababa. Has to be the most unlikely traveller I’ve met. He dresses like a teenager from the 70’s, spent 2 weeks in Egypt without seeing a single sight, and seems a little naive to say the least!

Our flight actually left 15 mins early! The “Loony Pamphlet” said Ethiopian Airlines was one of the best in Africa, I don’t like to say it but I’m sure they’re right. The service and food were excellent, and I managed to get copious quantities of G&T down my neck, which is enough to give them the thumbs up in my book any day!

As we waited for our baggage the power went off. Second African country on my travels, and it’s just as I’d expected. No power meant no carousel for the luggage, so it was an hours wait. Gave us time to change some money and haggle for a taxi.

We’d chosen “The Baro” hotel in the plazza area of town, it wasn’t the classiest place I’ve stayed at, but the friendly staff made up for that.

We took a stroll around town, had a bite to eat and a few drinks. Stayed out til gone 11 o’clock, but never felt unsafe at any time. The begging is quite difficult to handle, some of the sights are shocking and it’s very hard to walk on by, but it’s the only option, give to one and you have to give to all. Learned a useful phrase “Yalem” it simply means “I have nothing” and does the trick 95% of the time.

Kalek has deceided he doesn’t like Addis and wants to heads south to Kenya asap. I don’t know what he’s looking for, or if he just want so say “Ethiopia, did that!” What amazes me is that he has a friend of the family in town who wants to show him around, I’d jump at the chance.

Mozzies were bad, so the nets came out. Oh yes it rained, first rain I’ve seen for 4 months.

Friday 17th November
Addis Ababa

Slept really well, apart from the Mozzie from hell who kept trying to breach the net “battering ram” style.

A day spent on foot, tourist information  (best service since Greece) Checked out Sheraton hotel for satellite TV. (Rugby tomorrow!) Then a burger at “Burger Queen” which, according to the “Loony Pamphlet” has the best burgers in Africa.

National Museum next to have a look at “Lucy”. “Lucy” or her remains were the oldest (3.5 million years) human remains ever found that is until they found her elder brother (5.5 million years)

Not a lot to say about “Lucy” really, after all a skeleton is a skeleton. (OK fossilised bone, what’s the difference?)

Back to hotel to rest my weary feet and update my memoirs.

Saturday 18th November

Addis Ababa

Back down Churchill avenue to find an internet café. They wouldn’t let us in without surrendering our cameras so we gave it a miss.

We needed to reconfirm our onward flights. The Ethiopian Airlines office was “ramming”. You had to draw a ticket and wait (1 ½ Hours) When we were seen they asked for our passports. (back in the hotel safe!) I asked how they would see our passports if I’d phoned to reconfirm as we were advised to do on the plane. This had them confused, but after a few heated words with the manager we eventually got it sorted.

Next stop “The Mecarto” Africa’s largest open-air market. We’d been warned about pickpockets, but didn’t experience any problems apart from a few strange looks. Two guys may have tried to “rumble” me, but I didn’t turn around when they bumped me and just kept walking. We spent most of our time looking around  curio  stalls. I bought a fly whisk and some bells. (don’t ask!)

People are scratching a living selling whatever they can. I watched a group of children hunting around in the dirt for discarded ball bearings. They must have a customer somewhere.

Sheraton hotel for a beer or three and watch the rugby. Tragedy! The match wasn’t being televised. We made do with listening to it on the BBC world service and had four beers at the extortionate price of 80p each.

Even in the Sheraton we were the only white faces around. I was expecting to see a few more “travellers” but I think the war has kept a lot of them away.

I’d noticed that all the storekeepers and hotel staff wear white smocks, saw a stall in the “Mecarto” which sold nothing but white smocks, wonder what the doctors in Addis Ababa wear?

Sunday 19th November

Addis Ababa

Lazy day, did a bit of souvenir shopping with Bill, and read my book till 4.30. ent back to the Sheraton hoping that the South Africa v Ireland match would be on TV. Again we were out of luck and had to make do with the radio.

There was a wedding at the Sheraton that night. It was hard to take in the vast divide in wealth (& health) Mercedes Limousines dropped their charges at the door. Out they got, dressed up to the “nines” whilst 50 meters down the road I watched an Amputee drag himself across the road and a guy with fingers the size of cucumbers (Elephantitus) begging for 10 cents or less.

I’d managed to keep a “stiff upper lip” about most of the begging, but walking down Churchill avenue that evening a little girl of 5or 6 ran along next to me pawing my shirt and saying “mister, mister please my mummy hungry”. Her voice sounded so innocent. I searched round in my pocket for a couple of Bir to discreetly drop, but all my money was hidden away.

We ate at a Chinese restaurant that night, the food was excellent, but I couldn’t help thinking of the little girl. When we left I got 10 Bir ready to give her, but she was gone.

Spent most of the day walking, but even so I struggled to sleep.

Monday 20th November

Addis Ababa

Up early to meet our taxi driver. We’d chosen to hire a taxi for the day to show us around some more of Addis and the surrounding countryside. It was far cheaper at US$30 than an organised tour, and much more flexible. We drove to the top of Ntoto Mountain for an Ariel view of the city. On the way back down we came across a group of runners, I don’t know how true it was but we were told it was Gabreil Selassie’s running club.

Onto Addis Ababa university where the Ethnographic museum is housed. I was really looking forward to this as they have Heyli Selassies Bathroom and bedroom. It was shut, bloody pi**ed off!

We wanted to see one of the rock hewn churches that Ethiopia is famous for, but it was a 2 hour round trip, 20 Bir each and time was running short so we gave it a miss.

Next a 40km trip into the countryside, god it was beautiful, so lush and green. Not at all what we’d expected. It reminded me of home and the Marlborough downs. First time I’ve thought of home for a long time.

Mecarto again for Bill to get some coffee. Ethiopia claims to be the home of coffee.

I went off in search of a wooden pipe I’d seen on Saturday. It wasn’t as I’d thought wood, but bronze and really beautifully made. The shopkeeper wanted US$100 for it, way out of my league. Will see if he still has it when I return next year!

Tuesday 21st November

Addis Ababa – Johannesburg

A relaxing breakfast then off to the airport. We had to pay US$20 departure tax, we were told all taxes were included in our ticket, but no amount of arguing was going to change things. We coughed up.

Flight was again excellent, and nearly empty. Bill and I had 3 seats each. Clear skies made for good viewing all the way, got a great look at Kilimanjaro from 30,000ft.

Arrived in Jo’berg at 6 o’clock, and after much ado decided to take the train to Cape Town the next morning. A flight was £85 and we were in no hurry.

Stayed in a “Formula 1” hotel next to the train station it was spotlessly clean and good value at £7 each. Watched Man Utd playing some Greek team on TV.

Wednesday 22nd November

Jo’berg – Cape Town

First look at Johannesburg in the day light! South Africa has to be unique as far as African countries go. It’s hard to believe you’re in Africa at times. The buildings and infrastructure are so up to date.

We were told the train was fully booked, and that we’d have to go standby, thought I’d left this crap behind in Egypt! We got on no problem, and found there were lots of empty carriages.

We shared a compartment with Derek, a Cape Townian and Philipe, a French travel journalist. We hit it off with Derek straight away. He gave us some good advice on places to go and see, and a very informative narrative on the passing countryside.

The journey took 27 hrs, but was very enjoyable. Food was OK and the fold down bunk beds were surprisingly comfortable. The most surreal moment was taking a shower and watching the “Karoo” go by out of the window. The “Karoo” is South Africa’s semi-desert region. Very bleak, barren and after the first 200kms, boring.

Thursday 23rd November

Jo’berg – Cape Town

Arrived in Cape Town at 4 o’clock. Derek’s wife gave us a lift to a backpackers hostel, “Oak Lodge” It was full, which was a disappointment. It’d been recommended to me by a friend, and looked just the sort of place I would have enjoyed. Oh well!

We wandered down the road to “Ashanti”, another hostel. Even though it was very clean and beautifully furnished it wasn’t my cup of tea! It was a travel industry, they could arrange almost any trip or excursion. Although this can be handy it takes a lot of the fun away. The clientel were the very young (party all night) type Bill, Philipe and I must have doubled the average age!

We ventured into town for an Italian meal. This was were we got our first example of South African service levels, it’s either completely O.T.T., or mind numbingly slow.

We were asked five times if everything was OK with our food, I didn’t mind that, but the staff had been over coached in the “tidying up” department.  They seem to have developed compulsive disorders! I had to ask 3 times to have my glass returned. They’d lift up my bottle of beer, see it was still half full, put it down and take the glass away instead! American service levels gone crazy!

Despite advice to the contrary we walked back to the hostel.

The architecture in Cape Town is wonderful, a mix of Dutch and British Styles. They all blend in very well, and are in pristine condition. Many must be some of the finest examples off certain building styles still standing.

A couple of beers with Philipe. He’s worked in a lot of West African countries and has some fascinating tales to tell. Having read “Travels with my Briefcase” I was intrigued by his accounts of Fetishes (Cults).

Friday 24th November

Cape Town

Had Breakfast at “Ashanti”, cereal with “real” milk, wonderful.

Spent all day at the waterfront. I’d seen photo’s but it was better than I expected. A lot of the buildings are new, but they’ve all been planned with thought and consideration. Some English architects could learn a lot here.

Took in the dockyards where we watched a couple of Japanese whaling ships having a “spring clean” Then to one of the many waterfront cafes for a coffee.

We spent 2 hours in the new shopping mall, looking for curios and some new sunglasses. (I’d sat on my others once too many!

Now, I know Cape Town is a big city, but during our travels we went to 3 Malls in Cape Town, the size of which could easily cater for a city twice the size. One mall in Tyger Valley had a food court 3 levels high with a Paddle Steamer (full size!) at one end and TV of equal proportions at the other! Either shopping is a bigger national pastime than in America or a lot of the Malls are going to go to the wall very shortly. There just can’t be enough spare cash for all the products.

On our way back into town we stopped for a look at the maritime museum. My dad would have loved it, lots of beautiful model ships.

Checked E-Mail. Maggie is due on the 3rd.

Went for a Chinese with Philipe. Planned to climb Table Mountain in the morning if the weather is OK.

Saturday 25th November

Cape Town

Took a “Rikki” (minibus taxi) to Kirstenbosch gardens. Our driver was a lunatic, we mounted the kerb at one stage which left me with a nice cut and bruise on my shin! Thought I’d left the “Nigel Mansells” of this world back in Egypt!

We’d gone to Kirstenbosch to find the entrance to skeleton gorge, a popular route to the top. The gardens themselves were beautiful, and we should have had a proper look around, but we wanted to get a move on. It took us 1 ¾ hours to reach the summit. (Maclear’s Beacon) Bill and I left Philipe behind as he was dawdling. Later turned out he suffers from Asthma, sorry Philipe!

The view from the top was stunning, we stopped for lunch overlooking the town centre and Victoria and Alfred docks. Cape Town has to be the most beautiful city I’ve ever seen. (Rio de Janeiro was too long ago for me to remember) The setting is perfect, what with the ocean and Table Mountain as a backdrop.

Walked around to the cable car, stopping every 5 mins for some more photos. A quick beer at the top and back down again. Took the cable car this time. My knees don’t like the going down stuff.

We’d used our time at the top well and planned a route back to the hostel from our aerial viewpoint. Don’t think Bill was too sure that I knew where we were going, but we made our way straight back. Just in time for the start of the rugby. (England v Argentina) I managed to put back a few too many beers, and was a bit sloshed. I wanted some grub, and lots of it. Steak was in order, luckily for us 10 yards down the road was “Nelson’s Eye” apparently the 3rd best steak house in South Africa. It was certainly the tenderest piece of meat I’d ever eaten. Real “Melt in the mouth” stuff. Cost £7 a head, but I’m sure we’ll be back before we leave Cape Town.

Sunday 26th November

Cape Town

Bill’s search for curio’s and Christmas presents led us to green point market. It was full of craft stalls and the like. We walked away empty handed, apart that is from a baseball cap. I keep forgetting my hat when I go out, and as a result have a fine collection of headgear:- an Arab headscarf from Syria, a large “tea towel” fabric hat from Jordan and my rather colourful Nubian pork pie hat.

It was rugby time again, we gave the hostel a miss and settled into a couple of seats at the “sports café” on the waterfront. Had far too many beers again, but we met a nice South African guy who wouldn’t let our glasses run dry.

There was an international dragon boat festival going on in Victoria dock. (Wendy where were you? No Dutch team!) Needless to say the German’s won, all the other teams seemed to be having too much fun to take it all seriously!

Got back to the hostel late, had one beer with Philipe then bed.

Monday 27th November

Cape Town

Had to find the post office to collect some photos my mother had sent me. Our search led us through the botanical gardens, they were beautiful and spotlessly clean just like the rest of the city centre.

Spent rest of the day looking for a tent in various outdoor shops. Couldn’t see one we liked or thought looked good enough, so we decided to leave it till we had the hire car. Did some E-Mailing had a haircut and ate at a Thia restaurant. Lovely.

Tuesday 28th November

Cape Town – Saldahna

Spent all morning tearing around the suburbs of Cape Town looking for the KLM office. We’d phoned their office to ask where they were, and were given an address in Newlands. Everyone we asked said they’d never heard of it. Turns out it was right next to the cricket ground, why couldn’t they have told us that?

We found a great outdoor shop near Tyger Valley where Bill bought a tent. I think it was more than he wanted to pay, but it was superb quality, far better than anything you’d find in the UK. Which leads me on to say, the price, quality and range of outdoor equipment in South Africa is amazing. I spent a lot of time looking at equipment and half wishing I’d just shipped an empty Land Rover from the UK and kitted it out here. That was one off my initial plans, and if I was to do the trip again that’s the route I’d follow.

It was gone 3 o’clock by the time we’d bought the tent, so we took a short drive up the west coast to a nice fishing town called Saldahna. Pitched the tent at a beachfront campsite and headed off to find a bar. (more rugby!) Found the bar, but no rugby.

I had a cold coming on again, couldn’t believe it, that’s two in as many months.

Wednesday 29th November

Saldahna – Mosselbay

I had planned to head up to Namibia with Bill, but the road I wanted to take is not suitable for our hire car, and Bill’s time is limited so we decided to do the garden route instead. Back to Cape Town and onwards to Mosselbay.

The more I see of South Africa the more I like it. The only downside is the crime, don’t know if I could live in a house that is literally your castle.

Mosselbay is a surfer’s hangout, and I spent a few hours watching them playing around in the waves. I had a go myself years ago, but never managed to get on my knees let alone feet. Shame it looks exhilarating, and a sure way to pull the chicks!

Supper in one of those “foney” Irish pubs. While we were eating we overheard one guy at the bar saying he was from Swindon. Thought about chatting to him, but I wasn’t in the mood for being reminded of home. Not when I was having such a good time!.

Thursday 30th November

Mosselbay – Knysna – Port Elizabeth

Breakfast at a roadside farm shop, then onwards to Knysna. It was a beautiful place, as is the whole of the garden route especially Wilderness where we stopped to watch some paragliders riding the updrafts. The beach just stretched on for miles and miles into the distance. We would have spent longer in both places, but there was cricket in Port Elizabeth, and Bill was keen to have a look. We could always stop for longer on the way back.

Went straight to St Georges to see the last 2 hours of play. There was a real party atmosphere, the brass band, Beer and braais and people just generally enjoying a nice day out in the sunshine. The quality of life here is superb. I’m going to Emigrate!