Diary: October 2001

Monday 1st October
Ndabaka - Mwanza
Off to Mwanza to investigate ferry to Port Bell in Kampala. The road to Mwanza is great until Magu then it is ‘work in progress’ which is ok mainly but 10 kms from Mwanza it suddenly becomes very, very rutted. I crawled in to town and went in search of the Port. Suddenly the skies darkened and the rain poured down. Within five minutes the road had turned into a river. Handy really as it washed some of the volcanic dust off Maggie. After one and a half hours I had no luck and went in search of a camp site. There is only approximately 2 kms of tarmac in town and it appears that all the non 4 x 4s have headed for the tarmac during the deluge – it was gridlocked. The camp site in my guide book had closed down. Ended up at Mwanza yacht club. Beautiful setting. Views of the Lake and the townships built amongst the rock kopjies. Rain finally relented at 5 pm. Went in to town to send some e-mails. No luck as there was a black out in town. Retired to the camp site for a beer and grub. It is good food and cheap. I highly recommend a stop over. The only place in town and five minutes walk to the town centre. 

Tuesday 2nd October
Mwanza
Up early to do some work and cut my hair. The Masai watchmen had spotted my hair clippers and asked if they could borrow them. I was not about to become a barber but I lent them the clippers anyway and after an hour all four of them had crew cuts! Finally got some directions to the Port and guy I spoke to said ‘yes, no problem. US$80 for the car. Next one goes on Friday’ Great, I thought. Finally managed to do some e-mail and tried to cash some traveller’s cheques. The latter was impossible. I tried four banks, six hotels and two bureau de changes – but none would do it. Had to go back to the camp site to get some cash to change instead. 

Wednesday 3rd October
Mwanza
Whilst chatting to the yacht club commodore, he was surprised to hear about the ferry and advised me to go back and check. He was right. They have decided not to ship trucks and cars any longer. Advised to try the South Port instead. They will do it but at US$160 dollars – and no cabin. Decided I would give it a miss. Spent the rest of the day hunting around for a washing line – I keep driving off leaving them tied amongst the trees. And finally, a new pair of sandals. That is the fourth pair in 16 months. First pair disintegrated in Jordan. Second pair I lost one in the Namib desert – never to be seen again. Third pair went the way of the first. Buying anything of quality in Tanzania is well nigh impossible. Took me two hours to find a pair I thought might last a month or more. The guy wanted Tsh 16,00 per pair. I got him down to Tsh 7,000. But I said they were not a good fit. ‘No problem, he said, I have them in your size but it will cost you another Tsh 1,000’. What, I said, shoes that fit cost extra? ‘Oh, yes, he replied. Tsh 7,000 for a pair that fit or nothing.’ OK, then, he relented! A last evening on the yacht club veranda watching the sun set and the moon rise. 

Thursday 4th October
Mwanza - Musoma
Got my gas bottle filled on the way out of town. Stopped off at Serengeti Rest Stop for coffee with the staff. Can’t resist a pretty girl with a nice smile. Tempted to head in to Kenya but by the time I get to the border it will be late and I do not fancy spending the night at a border rest house. Stayed at Tmbo beach hotel. Nice spot but a little run down. It is on a peninsula so you get sunset on one side and sunrise on the other. Did a spot of fishing with some of the local lads. Again, they caught more than me just with bamboo poles! The bird life was wonderful. Saw kingfishers, pied and malachite, cranes, herons etc. And all within four metres. 


Friday 5th October
Musoma - Kisomo
Diesel and off to the border. It is quite a climb up to the border post but the formalities were quick and I was on my way again within half an hour. Beautiful drive to Kisomo. Again, it is very fertile and hence densely populated. Found Sunset beach camp site. It was formerly called – Dujan General Refreshments and my guide book said it was a little run down. But is under new ownership (ex Kenyan representative to UN). New owners are in the process of refurbishing it. It is a wonderful spot. There are about 12 thatched shelters which overlook a pool. In the evening you can sit there and watch hippos in the pool. Also saw three species of kingfisher – pied, brown hooded and woodland – amongst many other birds. I ate on the balcony overlooking the hippo pool. Fantastic sun set but big dark clouds were moving in from the north (but see photos). Boy, did it rain and windy. Into town for shopping, money, e-mail etc etc. Searched in vain for a Kenya sticker for Maggie. Finally back to Sunset Beach to watch the hippos and sunset. But, most important of all the England v Greece game on the BBC World Service (close one). 

Sunday 7th October
Kisomo - Entebbe
Fuelled up and set off. First 20 kms to Yala are pot holed but then the road is superb to the border at Bisuma. I was surrounded by guys wanting to help me complete my paper work. I ignored and proceeded to do my own immigration etc etc. One guy insisted on following me around. I was not going to pay him. When I had finished and got back in the car, he tried to guide me pass a truck and a low roof. I pointed to my roof rack and said – OK?. ‘Come on’ he says. Luckily for me, one of the police officers had seen my gesture cos I ripped the roof off the customs building. Out of the car. Police were OK with me but they take my unwanted guide and handcuff him to a safe door. They say he must pay for the damages. I asked how much. 500 Kenyan shillings they say. I offered 200 and asked them to let the guy go. They agreed but the guy is still chained to the safe when I leave. Ugandan side, same procedure, plus US$30 a month for insurance. Just as I am about to leave ‘driving instructor ‘from the Ugandan side arrives. They have released him from the safe and he is very apologetic and grateful.
The road is badly pot holed for the first 40 kms, then it is good all the way to Kampala. I head to Entebbe beach resort which my guide book recommends. I think in the two years since my guide was written the place has deteriorated. It is expensive and a hang out for hookers. I have been propositioned five times in as many minutes.

Monday 8th October
Entebbe - Kampala
Got to find another camp site. But first of all Ethiopian Embassy for my visa and British High Commission as my passport is nearly full. Tomorrow was a holiday – Independence Day, so have to go back to the Ethiopian Embassy on Wednesday. I found Kampala back packers. It is just out of town, much cheaper and there are no hookers. It appears that everybody is going to Speke Falls tomorrow for a plastic, fantastic, Independence Day party. Think I will tag along – sounds like a laugh.

Tuesday 9th October
Kampala – Jinga (Bugugal Falls)
Lazy start to the day. Breakfast etc etc. Chat to a Belgian couple in a Land Cruiser. They have just picked it up from Nairobi and are heading south after Uganda. Gave them a few pointers, camp sites etc etc. Packed up and headed off to Jinga and Speke Falls. Lovely camp site just below the falls. Well, actually it is below the Falls as in downstream but actually above the Falls in terms of elevation. Parked very close to the edge and cooked some Ugali and Relish. The Independence Day party for the locals ends at sunset and as the singers and dancers troop off the Plastic Fantastic party begins. A good night, must have been, I fell off the tent ladder and opened a wound in my leg.

Wednesday 10th October
Jinga - Kampala
Slow, lethargic start. Had breakfast and packed away and set off to Kampala. Maggie is a bit wobbly at speed. Think I must have clouted one of the front wheels on a speed bump. They are unmarked and impossible to see, especially in the rain. Ethiopian visa not ready yet. Come back in two hours they said. Had a look around the Ugandan museum. Very good and well laid out, informative, if a little poorly lit. Back to Ethiopian Consulate. Visa still not ready, come back tomorrow. Got Maggie’s wheels balanced. Right front was very bad, almost off the scale. It has done the trick, she is running straight and true again. Decided to try another camp site/back packers. The Red Chile Hideaway. It is more my type of place and the best showers since Uganda. Steaming hot power showers. Met Ofra an Israeli girl, had a chat and deciding to go to Banda Island on Victoria Island for a few days. 

Thursday 11th October
Kampala – Banda Island
Happy Birthday to Me!!! Collected my Ethiopian visa at last. But only thanks to one of the staff who helped me. The receptionist was hopeless. Bad news. As usual, they have stamped it from receipt. Only valid for 30 days which means I have to get in to Ethiopia for the 8th November. Dropped Maggie off at Red Chile |Hideway, then Ofra and I set off on a series of Matatus (mini bus taxis) to Kisumi Harbour. The boat was supposed to leave at 3 pm but it was gone 4:30 by the time all the supplies and people were loaded. We were carried to the boat by porters – Ush 1,000. Better than risking Bilharzia – especially with my open leg wound. Journey was four hours long and very uncomfortable. Ofra and I shared a four and a half wooden plank with two other people. Stopped at a fishing village/island to drop off supplies – ice, bananas, beer, bread etc. One of the locals took a photograph of us. Makes a change!! Mind you, he did ask permission to which I replied – 1,000 shilling a shot! Finally arrived at Banda Island. It is dark but appears a nice spot. We have supper, fish curry and rice. You get three good meals a day and accommodation for $US10 a day – good value I think.

Friday 12th October
Banda Island
The swamp flies are here. Clouds of them. But a long thunderstorm dampens them down a bit. It is a beautiful spot – shame about he weather. My day involves food, walk, food, swim, food, backgammon, book and bed.

Saturday 13th October
Banda Island - Kampala
I need to get back to Kampala but it is raining hard again. The boat has arrived too soon. I am ready but as far as Dominic the camp site owner is concerned it is far too soon. Too bloody early for that sort of thing. Cannot go out on the seas without breakfast. So he sent the boat owner off to do some shopping which I think involves touring around the local villages buying fish. I hope he has not upset the boat owner. I really need to get back to Kampala to-day. So, after breakfast, he phones the boat owner. Yes, mobile phones work in the middle of Lake Victoria. Is nowhere sacred?! OK, Dominic says you can come and collect him now. Dominic puts down his phone and mimics the boat owners response. Are you crazy, bwana, it is pissing down. He will come, don’t worry, Dominic assures me. Sure enough, at mid day, the rains abate a little and I hear the boat approaching. Dominic lent me a raincoat and I board the boat. It was standing room only and being last on I was right at the prow. If the journey out was bad, this was horrendous. It was a bad swell, heavy rains, a complaining outboard motor, only good thing meant the return journey was only two and a half hours. I see some other Mazungus at the port (whites). They are going to Banda Island. Can you take this (a raincoat) back for me. ‘Sure, how is the Islands’. Nice place, you will enjoy it, I reply. And the boat trip, they ask. I just grinned and walked to find a Matatu to Kampala. Back in town I tried to find the Forex Bureau. But they are all shut and the internet was not working because of the rain. 

Sunday 14th October
Kampala – Entebbe Airport - Kampala
Wendy arrives to-day and I need to have a good tidy up. Got to make at least a good impression. Spent all day washing and cleaning and scrubbing. A passing back packer comments – ‘Expecting female company?’ Im, very perceptive of you!!. Had a braai with a couple I had met on Banda Island. Then off to the airport to collect Wendy. We did not recognise each other. Mind you, it was nearly two years ago since we first met and then only for an hour or so. Back to Red Chile for a beer and unwrap my birthday presents from home. 

Monday 15th October
Kampala – Mboru National Park
Breakfast and in to town for money and shopping. Wendy wants to get straight in to the African thing. So, we decide to head to Mburo National Park. Stopped on route at a few stalls for fruit, veg and firewood. We were the only visitors in the whole park. We have a great camp site by the lake shore – watching hippos and birds as the sun sets. Did my chile con carne for supper. Not one of my better efforts!! I like Wendy, she is very laid back – not as prim and proper as I was expecting! (sorry Wendy!). 

Tuesday 16th October
Mboru N.P. - Mbarara
Had breakfast and then off for a game drive. Saw wooly necked crane, Ross’s turacos, zebra, buffalo, topi, kingfishers etc etc. We stayed in the parked until 4 pm to get our money’s worth. It is a nice park but not so much game. We went in to Mbara. Our guide book mentioned a camp site/lodge called Safari Lands. The book describes it between a Hans Christian Andersen tale and someone on serious drugs. They are not wrong -–it is an amazing place. But we are the only customers and it is a little run down now. It is a sprawling jumble of rooms, ladders, bridges, streams. They even have an amphitheatre, an abandoned curio stall and an art gallery. After supper, Wendy and I head in to the bar for a drink. Their supplies were a little low – we got the last two beers. We hear the piano being played upstairs and decide to investigate. At the top of three curving flights of stairs we find the pianist – stood at his piano, playing in the dark. What with all the bats flying around, it made for a surreal evening. 

Wednesday 17th October
Mbarara – Kabale – Lake Bunyonyi (Jasper’s Island)
Trundled off to Kabale where we were to get the boat to Jasper’s Island. Jasper is the headmaster of a school on another nearby island called Bwmama Island and on Wendy’s previous trip to Uganda she became involved with sponsoring some of the children's education and building work at the school. Did some more road side shopping on the way. Quick e-mail and a trip to the bakers at Kabale. We then parked Maggie at Lake Bonyonyi overland camp. Got a bottle of the local banana hooch (Waragi) and jumped on a dug out canoe to take us to Jasper’s Island. It was only a half hour paddle to the Island. Great spot, great place. Apart from two staff and Jasper himself and Jimmy the Labrador we had the Island to ourselves. Wendy cooked pumpkin soup and we had Waragi and coke. Arranged with Jasper to visit the Island the following morning. 

Thursday 18th October
Jasper’s Island – Bwama Island – Jasper’s Island
Chappati and omelette for breakfast. Only a five minute across to the school island. We are introduced at morning assembly – which is on the football pitch – then we join in some English and Maths lessons. Subtraction of fractions – I am not too good at them! I could not have studied at a school like this. I would be gazing out at the lake all day – it is a beautiful location. Quick tour of a new dormitory which Wendy had sponsored. Wendy has encouraged some friends back in Holland to sponsor some children and it is time for a quick photo shoot of the children. A girl, her name is Patience, hands me a note while I am waiting. It is quite well written, explaining that she is an orphan and is lame. She is 24 years old, and has only just managed to return to school but is unable to afford the fees. I asked Jasper if the note was correct and he said yes. I think he wanted me to sponsor another child but I am taken by her initiative. Most people are sponsoring the younger, cute children but I have agreed to pay for her fees. US$45 a year for fees board and lodging. Back to Jasper’s Island for a swim and sunbathe on the jetty. 

Started off on a paddle around the Island but a storm kicked up and we had to make a dash for the school island. Kids found it amusing to find us going around in circles doing what they call ‘the Mazungu corkscrew’. Another couple of hours playing football etc with the kids before returning to Jasper’s Island. Had freshwater crayfish for supper followed by another Waragi and coke before bed.

Friday 19th October
Lake Bunyonyi – Kisoro - Magahinga
Omellete and chappati for breakfast, diary writing. Beans and chappati for lunch. Good job I like chappatis!! Then the boat back to get Maggie. Gave Jasper a lift in to Kabale. Had my wing mirror smashed by a passing lorry. 

Post Office, Tourist Office, e-mail, diesel and off to Magahinga to see if we get lucky and can go gorilla trekking. 

Beautiful drive over the mountains. Changes from agricultural area to thick rain forest and back again as we descend to Kisoro. First stop was the National Park’s office. We are in luck!! There are only three others booked in to go trekking tomorrow. We head off through the park gates and the community camp site, where we meet the other three trekkers. Two English guys, Robert and David, and Anchia – a German girl. Had a beer with them on the veranda, then off to bed. 

Saturday 20th October
Magahinga
Quick breakfast then off to pay our trekking fees. US$15 for entrance to the park and US$175 for trekking. As well as our guide and two porters, we have our own private army of at least 25 soldiers. They are armed with AK47s, bren guns and even anti tank missiles. We left at 9:30. First hour’s walking was quite swift. Then we found where the gorillas had slept the night before and it became a stop and start exercise - as the trackers followed the spore and we had to wait while they cleared a path for us through the dense undergrowth. Then at mid-day our guide said, Ok you can get your cameras ready, the gorillas are here. The excitement was intense. I noticed that our guards were all staring at us. They must get a good feeling watching us as we get our first glimpse of the gorillas. A rewarding job. The grins on their faces were quite something. There were two silver backs which we saw only briefly but the females and juveniles we could approach to within 5 metres and one of the young actually came up to my feet. They all settled down in the clearing and we approached them again, snapping away on our cameras and watching in wonder. Words cannot describe such a moment. Needless to say it was probably one of the highlights of my 16 months on the road. We returned to the HQ in silence – all lost in our own thoughts and emotions. Back at the camp site, we had lunch and then walked off to a viewing platform to do some bird watching. Supper, beer and taught Wendy the bau game. She is good, too good.

Sunday 21st October
Magahinga - Bwindi
We had wanted to do some climbing at Magahinga but recently rebel activity meant the mountains were off limits. Set off to Bwindi. Road to the park was poor but the drive through the forest was quite something. Saw some duiker and red colobus monkey. Picked up a mother and her child just outside the park and gave them a lift for 20kms or so. Arrived at the community camp site and Bwindi to find an overland truck. Ah, I hate them! Watched the local women’s dance group, supper, backgammon and bed. 

Monday 22nd October
Bwindi – Q.E. National Park - Kasese – Ruwenzori National Park
We are now going to head to Queen Elizabeth Park. There is lots of mud on the road which makes driving great fun. Saw some Ugandan cob and Tsesebe and millions of butterflies. Stopped off at a bridge to watch weaver birds nest building and wire tailed swallows skimming over the river. We had hoped to find a forest camp site in the park but although our guide books mention it, none of them actually says where it is! Before we knew it we were in Kasase and had to start looking for somewhere to say. After checking out two hotels, we settled for a banda in town. Decided to investigate Rewinisori Mountain Services. We are both keen to do a walk in Rewinisori which has only recently opened – but it is very expensive but will cost over US$130 for a two day (one night) trek into the mountains but there is a camp site just outside the park HQ and we have been told we can walk in the foothills at no charge. So we abandoned our plans to stay in the bandas and head off to the camp site. Camp site at the HQ is not great but it is cheap. Arranged to do a walk with a local guide the following morning. 

Tuesday 23rd October
Ruwenzori N.P.
Met our guide Joseph and we head off up a mountain track. It starts off ok as you wind your way through the villages, then suddenly the path disappears and we are hacking our way through thick vegetation. A machete would have been very useful. I thought I had got pretty fit in Africa but this is bloody hard work. The path is almost vertical but the worst thing is the humidity. I am in real danger of over heating and am taking on lots of water. We eventually reach a view point in to the park but the view of the Rewenozori is not too hot (cloud cover). But it is still a nice view. We set off back down again, via a rocky outcrop for an R and R and a bit of sunbathing. Back at the bottom we decide to walk up to the park gate. My back is very painful, I need to see an osteopath. Gate is unmanned and not too exciting. But at least we can say we have been in the park – and for free! Back at the camp site we are doing our washing when a guy comes along and tells us of his community camp site just down the road. After another veggy curry we amble down the road to the camp site. I get a little annoyed with him. He asked me to do some promotion for him but he has no flyers for me to hand out. He asked why we did not stay at his camp site in the first place and again I explained it is not signed as a camp site. He then proceeds to put down our day’s walk and says we should have gone on one of his guided walks. I must admit it sounds good and the place is very nice but I tried to tell him that unless he promotes what they are doing, better, he has no grounds for complaints. We finally leave as Wendy realises I am getting a little annoyed with this guy. 

Wednesday 24th October
Ruwenzori N.P. – Fort Portal - Lake Nkuruba
Breakfast and journal writing. It was gone mid day by the time we packed up. Next stop, Fort Portal. The banks were closed and the bureau de change did not have any money! Changed money in a local supermarket then proceeded to spend the money on lots of local goodies. We have decided to stop at another community camp site – Lake Nakaruba. It is a paradise. A small crater lake surrounded by rain forest. Sat on a rocky promontory, swimming and watching the colobus monkeys swinging through the trees. Another veggy curry for supper! And more Waragi and coke! Simon the site manager said they had chimps on the site yesterday so we decided to spend another night in the hope of seeing them. 

Thursday 25th October
Lake Nkuruba
After breakfast we took a stroll down to the local market. Bought two nice sarongs as bed sheets and some more fruit and veg. Back at the camp site it started raining. Spent a few hours reading our books under the awning. Decided to take another walk up to a view point where we could see three lakes. Only Lake Nakarabua is still forested. And it looks so small and isolated surrounded by all the agricultural land. Got lost and ended up back at the market again. Back at camp site and overland truck has arrived – AHHH! They surrounded Maggie with their tents. Some are pitched within two metres of the car. I hate overland trucks. Simon is very apologetic and his girl friend explains that she tried to get them to pitch their tents further away but they would not listen. They offer us a banda for the night free of charge. Handy as it is pissing down! Wendy has her hair braided while I get supper going. 

Friday 26th October
Lake Nkuruba – Fort Portal - Hoima
Up early and back to Fort Portal for diesel and shopping. I get a flat. It is a nightmare. I have lost my wheel nut locking key. Left it at the wheel balancing centre in Kampala. Two hours later and with the help of a very strong guy and a big hammer, we are on the road again minus four locking nuts for the wheels. Just as well it happened here and not in the bundu, then I would have been in trouble. We have decided to head north towards Hoima. We expected the road to be very poor, according to our guide books, but it is an excellent sand and gravel road which the locals call ‘marum’. The people are very friendly. You can spot all the colours of the rainbow in the school uniforms the children wear. Pink seems popular. Unfortunate for the boys! We ended up at a place called African Village. They want Ush 10,000 per person for camping or US$25 for a banda, including breakfast. We take the latter. The banda is spotlessly clean, en suite bathroom and a nice covered verandah where we cook our veggie curry out of the evening rains. It is nice to have a hot shower and a big bed.

Saturday 27th October
Hoima – Butiaba – Murchison Falls National Park (Para Camp)
My leg had been very painful all night. My wound has gone septic. Went in to Hoima to find a Medi Centre and Dorothy the nurse who dressed my wound and gave me a jab in the bottom which I later found out to be penicillin. Woops! – I am allergic to penicillin and as a result felt pretty lousy for the rest of the day. Road to Butiaba was not too good, rain had made it very muddy and had to use the sand plates in a few places to avoid slipping off the road. Butiaba was a lovely little fishing village on the shores of Lake Albert. We spent a wonderful couple of hours wandering around and chatting to the locals. Wendy went dancing and I bought some fish for supper which I tied to Maggie’s grill, Ugandan style. We have noticed the local cars and matatus often have fish tied to the e grill. Apparently it is a good way of transporting it freshly and, more importantly, it keeps the smell out of the car. Wendy wanted to stay longer but as there was no camp site or hotel we would have had to wild camp or guest with one of the locals which I am sure would not have been a problem but as I was not feeling too clever I was not in the mood for playing the happy guest. We went on to Murchison Falls and camped at Perra on the south bank of the Victorian Nile. It rained again but luckily there was a covered shelter at the camp site for us to cook under.

Sunday 28th October
Murchison Falls (Para) – Murchison Falls (Falls Campsite)
We were up early to catch the 7 am ferry across the river. It is a bloody rip off at US$13 for a one way trip. The game viewing was poor. There were few animals and they were a long way off. Stumbled across Karumba Lodge – a hotel Idi Amin had built on the banks of the Nile. It was in total disrepair but you could tell it must have been quite a place in its day. Beautiful views and a half size Olympic pool, bars etc. Had our lunch, Guacamolian crackers whilst sat on Maggie’s roof watching the world go by. Back at the ferry at 2 pm we avoided paying this time. There was a lot of confusion and the gate guard accepted our first receipt as it was not dated or timed. On to the Falls. Quick walk but very hot. Very impressive. They say it is the most powerful surge of water on the planet and that is quite believable. Camped just up stream from the Falls. Took a skinny dip in the Nile and had beef curry for supper. It is a beautiful spot. I recommend the Falls highly but if you have been to other Parks in Africa, ie Serengeti or Masai Mara, then give the ferry trip a miss. It is just not worth the money as there is very little game. 

Monday 29th October
Murchison Falls N.P. - Kampala
We were going to do some chimp trekking in Southern Murchison Falls but heavy rains are going to make trekking an unpleasant option. Onward to Kampala after a quick oil change in Masandi. Very, very heavy rains outside Kampala. Did all the usual, money, shopping, e-mail etc then Wendy treated me to a Chinese meal in town. It was a very classy restaurant. We were the only diners. Went a bit crazy and ordered far too much. Cost US$28 but we got doggy bag for the remaining three quarters of the meal! Back to the Red Chile hideaway where we made some ‘phone calls and arranged to go white water rafting at Jinga the next day. Decided to take a room as it was still raining and we needed an early start to get to Jinga by 10 am next morning.

Tuesday 30th October
Kampala – Jinga (Bugugali Falls)
We made it to the rafting site by 10 am and proceeded to get kitted out. There were only three of us, an Israelie guy, Wendy and myself. We had to bolster the numbers a bit and they recruited some of the local rafting staff to paddle. Did a few practice drills including a reverse flip. I got trapped under the raft with one of the local guys and we both got in a bit of a panic. I then decided it was not for me and pulled out. Half way up the bank,I thought of the guys on the scuba course in Egypt and said to myself – no, sod it, I will do it. They agreed with me but suggested I go in the oar boat for the first few rapids. After the first two rapids I was back on the raft for the others. Very exhilirating. It gets very rough and the two local guys who had come along were catapulted out of the raft on one of the extreme rapids. Lunch on an Island, then off to do the next five rapids, including what they call ‘the bad place’. We escaped it unscathed which I found a little disappointing as I had psyched myself up for a bit of a swim. The local kids had great fun deflating the rafts, springing around on them like they were bouncy castles. Back to Bugeagali Falls camp site for Chinese part two and an early night. We were exhausted. Did not sleep too well. Now the cuts on my finger have gone septic. 

Wednesday 31st October
Jinga – Mbale – Sipi Falls
Bought a CD rom of photos from our rafting trip then back to Jinga for provisions etc etc. Next stop was Sipi Falls. The road to Mbala was A1. Had a coffee and samosa in town and bought a charcoal stove for US$2 – I have not used the gas for a long time and charcoal is very cheap at US$1 for a 25 kg bag. The road up to the Falls was pretty good but it is raining again. The first site we stopped at – the Crow’s Nest – had an overland truck there and we would have had to camp in the car park. So, we moved round the corner to Moses’ Camp Site. It was wonderful. We parked up with a great roof top tent view of the Falls. Sat out the rain storm in the bar whilst doing more journal writing. Another veggie curry for supper.