Diary: July  2001:

Friday 22nd June
Maun
All day in the garage having Maggie serviced. It was a good laugh the guys have a good sense of humour. Someone is always having his or her “leg pulled”
The garage has the contract to service all the government Land Rovers. The back yard was packed with Landies. They’re all white, I first noticed this in South Africa, but it appears the colour and trim options are a bit limited on South African built vehicles!
The service manager latter told me that they have to strip each vehicle and send a quote to the relevant ministry before any work is undertaken. Very time consuming, and expensive as they have to pay for the manhours involved in stripping each vehicle.
Maggie looks in good shape , but I did have the steering UJ’s replaced (backlash) and I’m a bit concerned about the state of the tyres. Bit reluctant to fit anything other than Michelin XZL’s. They’ve proved to be almost “bullet proof” 30,000 km’s and not one puncture. ( The Zimbabwe incident turned out to be a faulty inner tube). Back to Sedia hotel for E-Mail and a beer.
We cooked all our meat in preparation for the vetinary checks en-route to the Kalahari. You can’t take uncooked meat into certain areas of Botswana. I’ve spoken to some South Africans who’ve had all their meat and dairy products confiscated.

Saturday 23rd June
Maun-Kalahari (North East Entrance gate)
Town for a last minute stock up on provisions, and off down south towards the Kalahari.
Sure enough we were searched at the Vetinary cordon fence, but they seemed satisfied with the cooked meat. Followed the fence which runs due south towards the park. It was a very boring drive, not a lot to see but 100 km’s of fencing.
Wild camped 5 km’s from the park gate, again to avoid a nights camping costs within the park.

Sunday 24th June
Kalahari (NE Gate) – Deception Pan
Had to wake the gate guard from his slumber before we could get in.
No sooner than we entered the sky darkened, and the thunder could be heard rumbling in the distance. It really added to the atmosphere, huge expanses of grassland dotted with the occasional tree, and now the canopy of dark thunderclouds made me think back to all those nature documentaries I’d seen on the Kalahari and Serengeti. It was hard to believe I was now in the thick of it myself.
Game viewing was disappointing, Gemsbok- Springbok- Wildebeest - Ostrich, vultures (black backed & lapet faced) there were lots of black backed jackals, but nothing else of real note. I did stop to watch a group of Chanting Goshawks trying to dry out their flight feathers while perched in a tree. It was bloody funny. They’d get their balance, and stretch out their wings, but the wind was quite blustery, and a few were literally blown of their perches. We did have the place to ourselves though which was wonderful.

Monday 25th June
Deception Pan – Maun
Had a race with an Ostrich on the way out of the park. It started running along beside me when I passed. I stopped, It stopped, I’d accelerate It’d match me. I just couldn’t shake it off! I even tried stopping and reversing for a while, but it just waited for me and followed along as I got level with it.
Left the park, and headed towards Rakops. We stopped for lunch just north of Rakops, and Eddie proceeded to slag off the African road builders. He said he’d used this road 8 years before, and nothing had been done. We set off again, and within 5 mins we were on the best bit of road in Africa. I laughed!

Tuesday 26th June
Maun
Went in search of a back street workshop to do some mods to my jerrycan holder. It’s been mounted too high, and the weight isn’t being supported on the base of the roofrack. It’ll soon break I’m sure. The guys I found did a great job, and I had a good laugh with them.
A custom I’ve just noticed is that when someone hands you change or a receipt they hold the elbow of the giving hand with their other hand. It’s quite strange, and almost looks like what they’re holding is so heavy they need two hands to hold it up!
On the subject of receipts you get one for almost anything, no wonder the stationary shops are doing so well. Had smoked Kudu steak and salad for supper. (Different, but not unpleasant)
The South African holidays are obviously on. The campsite has filled with Gauteng registered cars. I find it quite amusing the amount of equipment they have. I’ve seen 110 Land Rovers with two people in, the back is loaded to the roof, and they are towing a trailer!

Wednesday 27th June
Maun – Moremi (Khwai River)
The roadside markings for villages are quite strange, usually a stick with an old number plate and a couple of wheel covers nailed to it, anything they find on the roadside I think.. I can just imagine someone directing a friend to their house:- “ oh, were approx 50 km’s from Maun, just look for the post with the “ABC 123 GP” plate and the Toyota Corolla front bumper” The best I’ve seen so far is a complete toilet bowl!
The road North to Moremi was wonderful, especially the wooded section. We came across an Elephant skeleton in one clearing.
Had to do a bit of wading to cross the Khwai river. The bow wave was quite impressive, Just when I thought I was nearly home and dry I dropped even deeper, and the water came over the bonnet. A bit scary! The amount of game we saw along the river (Elephant, Waterbuck, Imapala, Springbok, Zebra, Hippos, Crocodile, Fish Eagles, Kingfishers etc etc) lead us to believe that a trip into the park may be a waste of time, we’d seen virtually everything within 15 Km’s
Tried to wild camp next to the river, but were moved along by the parks rangers. They said that even though we were outside the park we were in a concession area, and camping was prohibited. We agreed to head to the local village and camp there. We didn’t (naughty, naughty!) we found a spot where we couldn’t be seen from the main track and set up there.

Thursday 28th June
Moremi – Chobe – Buffalo Ridge (Ngoma)
What a start to the day, I’d just climbed out of the tent when I caught sight of some thing coming towards me. I stood dumbstruck as a pack (Five) of wild dogs trotted past me. They were so close, if I’d reached out I could have touched them! They took only a passing interest in me, a turn of the head and a glance, as if to say “what are you doing, don’t you know camping’s prohibited here!” They’re such beautiful animals, I love the way they move, so “light of foot”. To get to ferry at Kazangula we had to transit Chobe, for which we were of course charged a lot of money, I wouldn’t have mined so much if I’d seen more game than Elephant, hundreds of them.
Northern section of Chobe was that “soft sand” thing again, thankfully nothing like Kaudum.
Camped at Buffalo ridge, near Ngoma. It’s a nice site overlooking the Chobe river.

Friday 29th June
Buffalo Ridge
Took a walk along the river. Cecile and I did our bird and tree identification stuff. I’m pretty good at the feathery things, but some times the trees can be difficult to say the least. I’ve collected leaves, seeds, flowers, even bark from some trees, and still only been able to tie it down to 3or 4 possibilities.
Cecile found a shredded snake skin, it’s really beautiful, and completely intact, you can see the eye sockets! My back was playing up, so I spent the rest of the day in my hammock with binoculars and bird book to hand. Oh, and a beer of course, for anesthetic purposes obviously!
Tried to cook a stew in the evening, but the wood, although burning well gave of no heat at all. After 2 hours I reluctantly resorted to the gas.

Saturday 30th June
Buffalo Ridge – Livingstone
Had to transit the park again to Kasane, no charge this time. Just had to fill in the visitor’s book at both ends. Again lots of Elephants, we were held up for 20 mins while a herd of 60+ crossed the road.
Ferry at Kazangula was very quick. For us anyway. It can only take one Artic lorry at a time, but they squeeze 3-4 cars on at the same time.
Eddie had a few problems with the customs guys at Kazangula. His South African logbook claims his car is a Leyland, not a Land Rover. This was true at some time in the past. You could see the customs guys were having a good time arguing the toss! I told Eddie to show them the VIN plate -that would sort it out. But the VIN plate said it was a BMC! Also true, but try telling that to an irate customs official. A good example of why to ensure that all your paperwork is in good order.
I left Eddie to it, not sure if he “smooth talked” them or offered a financial incentive, but eventually they relented and we set off to Livingstone. Road was pretty good, a few potholes, but we made good time. Into town to change money etc
Camped at a site near the falls (I forget its name!)

Sunday 1st July
Livingstone
Off to the falls. I’d seen them a few years before, but only from the Zim side. We did all the routes, Boiling pot, Knife Edge, East Cataract etc. You get much closer (wetter) than the Zim side, but I think the overall view/impression is not so stunning. One highlight was a full circle rainbow while crossing the bridge. Would have loved a photo, but I wasn’t going to risk my camera in the downpour. I think that should read “Uppour” the spray seems to rise quicker than the water going over the edge!
Off loaded some T-shirts at the curio stalls in exchange for a nice chief’s pipe.
Chatted to a couple from London who’ve come down from Tanganyika. Sounds like they’ve spent a small fortune on traffic fines. No reflective tape, only 1 warning triangle etc etc
Cecile asked one of the camp staff for firewood, and the next thing we heard was the chopping of trees. The African version of “Just in Time” delivery I suppose!

Monday 2nd July
Livingstone – Kafue (South entrance gate)
After hearing the Londoners tales of traffic fines I went in search of reflective tape. Just as well really, we had 3 roadblocks in the first 60 Km’s. It seems the answer is to ask the police officer a question i.e. “Which way to XYZ?” before they have a chance to scour your vehicle/paperwork. They then start giving directions, at which point their colleagues interject giving other directions. The result is an amusing argument between them, but eventually they agree on a route, feel good for helping you, and completely forget to check your vehicle/papers! Locals on the road to Kafue were great. Lots of waving and smiling. One guy was obviously in the “tub” when he heard the car approaching, he ran out into the track to wave, then remembering his manners dashed back to get a sack to wrap around himself before returning to wave again!
Wild-camped 5 km’s short of the park gates.

Tuesday 3rd July
Kafue (South Gate)- Itezh Tezhi
What a Laugh! We approached the park gate, and were greeted by “Study” the park official. He turned out to be a real “hoot”. We asked him if we could camp by the dam at Itezh Tezhi. “Hold on a minute I’ll radio them and ask for you” It turns out his radio wasn’t working too well and he proceeded to shout very loud to his collegue at the other end. “ZEBRA ONE, ZEBRA ONE, THIS IS ZEBRA TWO, COME IN”
“I HAVE SOME VISITORS WHO WISH TO CAMP BY THE RIVER, IS THAT OK?”
His colleague has then obviously said yes, and is trying to give some directions for us, but Study has no time for this, “NEVER MIND THE CAMPSITE” he said “I’LL TAKE THEIR MONEY FIRST, LETS GET SOME CASH!”
Cecile and I couldn’t take anymore, and had to go outside, we were laughing so much!
We paid in Kwacha, it was much cheaper than U$. The exchange rate he was using must have been a couple of months old so we took advantage. Surprised that they didn’t insist we pay in U$ like the parks in Zim. Drove the 120km’s to Izethi Tezhi seeing only one Red Lechwee. Got a bit rough at times, there were a few places where turning the cars over would have been very easy.
I also gave Maggies shocks and springs a real work out at one stage. I’d just come out of a wooded section into an area of tall grass (above the roof rack!) when I hit some very deep ruts. I hit the roof, and Maggie developed some new noises. I was only doing 4-5 km/hr. Be warned, I’ve since come across the same thing in other areas of Zambia and Mozambique. The tall grass generally indicates a river course or area of flooding, as a result the track is badly churned up beneath what appears flattened grass. GO VERY SLOWLY.
Oh yes, the Tetse flies were horrendous. Had to drive with the windows and vents shut, not pleasant. OK for Eddie he’s got Air con.
Drove into a village, and found the warden who said he’d find a guide to escort us to the campsite. The guide turned out to be a female ranger brandishing her Kalashnikov assault rifle. She rode along with me after I’d encouraged her to remove the ammunition clip. I didn’t want any new ventilation holes in Maggie, or me come to that! She spoke good English, and when I asked what the rifle was for she replied “dangerous animals” come on, an assault rifle for game. Talk about “taking a sledge hammer to crack a nut” But then again it’s probably all they can get, and I’m sure there’s no shortage of AK47’s in Zambia.
It turned out that no-one had used the campsite for a longtime, and as a result no-one was sure exactly where it was. We found one guy who said he knew and would guide us. We were being led into a thickly wooded section “bit overgrown” they said, not joking, after some serious “deforestation” I opted to turn back to a more open spot by the road.
Later I took a walk into the bush, and sure enough there had been a campsite there. Braai pits, benches etc, but it hadn’t seen any campers for a long time.
Gave Maggie a look over before supper, everything looks OK, but I’m sure the front coils are on the way out. Should have relaced them when I did the rear ones in Scotland.

Wednesday 4th July
Ithezi Tezhi – Lusaka
One of those 20%Tarmac 80%Gravel/Pothole roads, slow going. Took 5 hours to do the 100 km’s to the main road. Another 4 roadblocks, but the “are we on the right road to…” approach worked like a treat. The 250 km’s to Lusaka were a mostly good, but the last 70-80 km’s were badly potholed. Another case of “running the gauntlet”. It’s very tiring, the concentration required is taxing, and after a while I resorted to just driving through them. Stayed at Eureka camping just outside town. They claim to have the best showers in southern Africa. I have to agree they’re excellent. Spotlessly clean and piping hot water 24hrs a day.
Watched a bit of Sky news at the bar. Isreal/Palestine still going on!! And Mount Etnas erupting.

Thursday 5th July
Lusaka
1st stop Land Rover garage. Eddie’s sump is leaking. The guy says to Eddie, (in front of his boss) “It’ll have to be a private job, see you in the bank car park at 12 o’clock” That’s Africa I suppose.
Tanzanian Embassy for my Visa. No problems, come back at 2.30pm (U$50, and they wouldn’t take the notes with the small heads of the presidents on them)
Cecile needs a Visa for Malawi, don’t know what the French have done to upset the Malawians. Eddie (Belgian) and Me (British) don’t need one. Anyway we continued our tour of the diplomatic triangle to find the Malawian consulate. Also same day service, this is too good to be true!
Back to bank car park to have Eddie’s sump fixed. Guys did a good job under the circumstances, and it was cheap.(£5)
Did a quick spot of E-Mailing at the post office in Lusaka. The Hawkers are a bloody nightmare, just wont take “No” for an answer.
Collected our Visas and back to Eureka Camping.

Friday 6th July
Lusaka
First stop Mozambican Embassy for more visas. “Come back in 4 hours” Am I in Africa?
I had lost a filling last night, and went in search of a dentist. Did a good job, though it was expensive K100,000. But I wasn’t prepared to risk my health to a back street operator!
Back to Mozambican Embassy for visas, then a search for more reflective tape for Maggie. This stuff was the red/yellow chevron variety. I know it’s a requirement for cars in Mozambique. At this rate there wont be any exposed paintwork on Maggie.
The roads in town are Chaos. There’s an OAU summit going on, and the number of blacked out limos and motorcycle outriders is outrageous.

Saturday 7th July
Lusaka – Serenje
Off on our way to the Lakes. The roads in the north are excellent. The finest cycle tracks in Africa, that’s the only other traffic we saw!
Bought a huge bag of charcoal from one of the roadside traders. Its excellent stuff, and cheap at K5,000 Fuelled up in Serenje, and as it was getting on we opted to search for a campsite. Ended up in a scrap yard. Lots of noise at night, but it was cheap K2,000

Sunday 8th July
Serenje – Kundalila Falls – Chipunda
Left our scrap yard campsite after I had liberated a few bits and pieces from an old Landy. Road was again excellent to the Falls. Not quite Vic Falls, but still a nice sight, the river runs along a fault line, and then tumbles down a “straicase”
Stumbled across two Immaculately dressed guys. They turned out to be Jehovahs Witnesses on their way to Kingdom hall. Strange sight in the middle of the bush! The Africans love to dress up on Sundays, it’s a good way of keeping track with the days of the week. Monday-Saturday drab, torn work clothes, and then Sunday the spotless, pressed clothes come out of the wardrobe.
U$3 dollars to see the falls, a bit steep I thought, but you could camp there for the same price. Think I would have if it wasn’t so early in the day.
Cecile and I had read about a camp on the lake Bangweulu marshes where it may be possible to see the very elusive “shoebill” bird. Seemed like a good reason as any to head off into the bundu.
Missed a turning and ended up at Livingstone’s Memorial. Not a lot to see, a large stone obelix, and a tree below which his heart was buried. A plaque records how two of his porters carried his body from there to Dar es Salem. Can you imagine that, a journey of probably 1,500km’s on foot carrying a rotting corpse through the bush!
Found the right track again, but it was getting late, so we wild camped. The locals actually tried to hide from us. That’s a new one, and a pleasant change from the crowd of spectators that we’ve become used to.

Monday 9th July
Chipunda – Nshobe Camp
Long days drive, very slow in places. Road is densely populated though, and it makes for a great way to see rural Africa. The Villages are well kept, lovely houses/huts with privet hedges and flower gardens. Obviously a lot of civic pride.
Some of the kids shout “Lacker, Lacker” I wasn’t so sure what they were after, but it’s bound to be sweets or money. A guy at the campsite later told me that a lot of South Africans drive through the villages throwing sweets out of the windows as they go and shouting “Lacker, Lacker” (Tastey, Tastey). Bloody irresponsible if you ask me, it encourages them to beg, but worst of all it’s dangerous. The kids associate cars with sweets, and charge out into the track without thought.
Spotted the plough in the night sky for the first time in a long while, must be getting closer to home. Not a good thought!

Tuesday 10th July
Nsobe Camp (Bangweulu Marshes)
Not a good start! Told to be ready by 5 o’clock, but the guides had forgotten to tell the other couple ( An Isreali and his Dutch girlfriend) what time to get up. Had to wait for them, then a blazing row with the scout at the village about the mokoro. I was not in a good mood, I hate being misled and misinformed. Eventually (7 o’clock) we were on the water.
Loads of birds in the marshes, even better than the Okovango delta trip I thought.
At 8 o’clock the Mokoro would go no further and we had to walk/wade through the thigh high swamp. It was a bit of a laugh for the first half hour or so, but it’s bloody tiring. Like walking in deep snow.
The locals who live in the swamps have their huts on man made islands. It was quite interesting to see how they catch their fish in reed traps. They place the traps in the dykes they’ve built to channel the river.

At 11.30 we stopped on a small “island” the Isreali and his girl friend wanted to go on in search of the shoebill. Eddie, Cecile and I had had enough. We decided to wait for them. 1 ½ Hrs later they returned looking very, very tired and no sighting. I don’t think the Israeli and his girl friend realized how far we’d come, and that we still had to get back.

I was smoking like a trooper. For two reasons:- firstly in a vain attempt to keep the mozzies at bay and secondly to burn the Leeches off my legs. When I spotted the first one, I thought I had grown an extra toe! I was about to pull it off when I remembered that scene from “Africa Queen” when Humphry Bogart burns of the Leeeches with a cigarette. So I followed suit, and sure enough they just fall off.

We head back towards the mokoro, but the two guides are keen as hell that we should see this dam bird. They leave us again at an abandoned fishermans hut, and off they go again. I couldn’t take it away from them, they really wanted us to see this bird. We waited another ½ hour while they scouted around the swamps in vain. The hut had a nice garden of canabis plants growing out the back. I suppose when you live in the middle of a swamp you need something to liven up the evenings!
When they returned I asked, “well, any sign off it?”
“Not as of yet” one of them hopefully replied.
I couldn’t help it I laughed and laughed.
This time we’d all had enough. “Take us back to the mokoro” the Israeli said. At last I thought he’s realized the futility of this search. His girlfriend is looking completely exhausted.

After another 2 hours of wading we made it back to the mokoro, I’d never been so glad to get into a boat in my life. We’d waded though the swamps for approx 5 hours, it was bloody hard work. I wouldn’t say I was supremely fit, but then again none of us were slouches. We’d all had enough after 3 hours, my back was killing me. The guides do this nearly every day, and it showed they could wade as fast as we could walk on dry land. I tried everything, shoes on, shoes off, lifting my legs, dragging them through the water, but I couldn’t keep up with them. Don’t be put off by what I’ve said, it was a great experience, a good way to see how people eek out an existence in such a place, and the bird life is amazing. But I guarantee one thing if you do come, you’ll only do it once! Oh yes and take loads and loads of water.

Wednesday 11th July
Nshobe camp – Chipundu
I had a bad night’s sleep, think I’m suffering from a bit of heat stroke. Took some re-hydration salts before we set off. Back down the road again, stopped for a few photos in some of the villages, and to buy bananas.
We were going to camp at a site called Waka Waka lake. We’d stopped by one the way north, and it looked a nice spot, but they wanted U$5 per person, and no facilities. Drove up the road 4 Km’s and wild camped in the bush.

Thursday 12th July
Chipundu – Samfya
Road north was interesting, swamps and a landscape dotted with huge temite mounds. 120km’s of people on bycles Stopped at Lake Bangwelu lodge for the night. It’s a nice spot, but a bit windy. Was told it’s better when it’s windy as it keeps the swamp flies away. I got to see what they meant latter, as the sun went down the wind relented. We were literanly carpeted in flies, thankfully they eased up later in the evening.

Friday 13th !! July
Samfya – Mansa – Luwingu(ish)
Too windy to spend a day on the beach, so we press on towards Mansa. Took Eddie and I Two hours to get two travellers cheques cashed!
Left Mansa, and headed off into the bundu again.
Another wildcampsite, I love camping in the bush.

Saturday 14th July
Luwingu – Chishimba Falls
Another 200 km’s of varing track. The flat stretches are fine, and you can get up a bit of speed (30/40 km/hr) but in the valleys the rains have created deep gullies, almost canyons! It’s 1st gear low range. Again the road was densley populated, and the people love to wave and smile.

Stopped for lunch and as usual some people stopped by to have a look at the “muzungu’s” (whites) one guy on a bike approached me and said “Give me money”

“OK” I said, “but give me your shirt”
He thought about it for a while before replying “Erm, no!” I think he got the point!
The falls are a nice spot, we’ve decided to stay for a day or two, and relax a bit.
I like Zambia, the game viewing is poor, but the scenery and people more than make up for that. As their publicity say “It’s the real Africa”

Sunday 15th July
Chishimba Falls
So much for a relaxing day I started off doing a few little bits and pieces to Maggie, and ended up with the whole tool kit out! I’ve got one of those ceramic water filters, and I was using it to filter 2/3 jerry cans of water at a time. I realized this was a bit crazy, and installed it so I have filtered water “on tap from a jerry can by the back door. Saves a lot of time and hassle.
Took a stroll around the falls in the afternoon. The view from the main falls is superb, a real rain forest scene winding its way along the river.

Monday 16th July
Chishimba Falls – Kasama – Mpulungu
Fuel and food in Kasama. I was surrounded by a few hawkers/beggers at the filling station, and they set me off on a bad mood. I proceeded to argue with everyone in town. I chastised the guy at the air pump for over-inflating my tyres, rowed with the cashier in the supermarket for sending me around in circles with my empty bottles. Just one of “those days” I suppose!

Stopped to buy some bananas on the road north. The woman wanted K2,500 for the whole stalk, or K100 for 4. I had a quick count, and Cecile and I proceeded to buy them 4 at a time. We ended up with the whole stalk for K1,500!
Leaving the woman scratching her head! Bananas are so cheap K25 each and there’s K3,750 to U$1. And they taste so sweet, nothing like the bananas you get in the UK.

Chose Tanganika lodge as our campsite, beautiful. Parked cars right on the lakeshore, and made ourselves comfortable. Going to stay at least 3 nights.

Tuesday 17th July
Mpulungu
Did sweet “F.A” all day. Swam, read my book, sunbathed, watched the world go by, Braii and bed. It’s a tough life! Eddie is not well. Looks like he’s got food poisoning from some ham they bought in Kasama. Probably been sat on the shelf for a month or so.

Wednesday 18th July
Mpulungu
Eddie’s fridge is playing up, and he’s convinced it’s the second battery. I said that we could probably get a new one in town, so Cecile and I charter one of the local boats to take us to the port. It was quite a laugh, We had to bail the boat faster than the guys were paddling!
Arrived at the port and hitched a lift to the nearest garage, got a battery, and back to the boat after a quick look around the market. Took us 3 hours “door to door” and 2 of those were spent on the boat. Can this really be Africa? Turns out Eddie’s battery is fine, can’t believe he didn’t put a multimeter on it first of all, but it appears not. However my second battery is not holding a charge for long, so it may not have been a wasted trip.
The guys at the campsite are good fun and very helpful, but they’re constantly on the cadge for cigarettes. I’ve relented, and given then a packet. Told them to make it last as they wont be getting any more.

Thursday 19th July
Mpulungu
Eddie’s still not well.
Took Martin, one of the camp staff into town for a shopping trip. He’s a nice guy, and really enjoyed being in the car. He was waving to all his mates on the way, and insisted on having the stereo at full blast. Market was good fun. The usual African affair, 30 stalls selling soap and hair dye. You had to look hard to find anything you wanted. I managed to get some onions and tomatoes, but no bread or milk. Back at the lodge Cecile and I chartered another boat for a spot of fishing, caught 5 “sprats” but nothing big enough to fill a plate. I’d cut up the first fish to use as bait, and had thrown the head over the side. Two minutes later a fish eagle swooped on it. Nice!
Another beautiful sunset. Watched the kingfishers plunging into the water, and a family of otters diving for supper. Great to see them lying on their backs, holding their catch with their paws.

Friday 20th July
Mpulungu
Serviced Maggie, and spent rest of day reading.

Saturday 21st July
Mpulungu
More reading. I should have been doing the diary, but there’s no electricity, and I don’t want to flatten the battery. That’s my excuse anyway, and I’m sticking to it. Read and listened to “Sports Roundup” on the BBC.

Sunday 22nd July
Mpulungu – Isoko(ish)
Eddie says he’s well enough to drive, so we set off. But not until I’d towed a South African guy and his 2WD Nissan up from the beach. He said he didn’t think he could make it back up, and he was right. Shouldn’t have come down so far in the first place!
Eddie’s still not 100% and Cecile is driving. First time he’s let her drive since I’ve been traveling with them. Went into Nakonde for provisions where we were told at a roadblock that the road from Nakonde to Chipita (Malawi) was impassable. Advised to head to Isoko and head east on a new road 50 km’s north of Isoko. Wild camped in what appeared to be an old quarry. Surrounded by the usual spectators.

Monday 23rd July
Isoko(ish) – Karonga
The spectators had returned in the morning, and as we left one of the kids said “give me money” One of his peers clipped him around the ear “Don’t be so rude boy, say “Good Morning sir. Give me money” Thought that was highly amusing, but not worth any financial reward.
Drive to border was OK a bit rough in places. Bought a straw hat from one of the passing locals for £1. I’d been watching the GPS and was a bit concerned that according to the GPS we were now in Malawi, and not a sight of any immigration or customs.
At Chapita we found the Malawian border post. They told us that the Zambians had abandoned their side of things a long time ago. The Malawians had no problem stamping us in, but I still had my carnet to clear. I wasn’t going to drive back to Isoko, and didn’t see why I should, but I had to get it stamped somehow. Decided to look for a border post on the way down south, or contact the Zambian consulate in Lilongwe for advice.
The Malawians wanted MK75 for a toll fee. I said we didn’t have any Malawi Kwatcha, could we pay in U$ dollars, “Oh no, it has to be Kwacha”
“Well, can you change some money for us?” I asked
“No”
“Oh, is there a bank in Chatipa?”
“No”
“What shall we do then?”
In a hushed voice he suggested “You could try the black Market”
“OK, where can I find that then?”
“What?”
“The black market”
“Shhh, there is no black market in Malawi!”
Africa, I love it!
Road to Karonga was fantastic. A winding track down the mountain, red ocre gravel, palm trees, wooden bridges over deep gorges. At one stage I noticed that I’d driven 13 km’s but only made 1 ½ km’s in the general direction of Karonga. The scenery though kept my mind off how much progress I was making. Great stuff.
Maggie’s driver’s door is about to fall off I’m sure. The hinges are making a noise like someone cracking their knuckles, bloody annoying. Just have to turn the stereo up louder!
I spotted a couple of boys picking up some stones as I approached them, “Oh, I thought this must be the Malawi welcome committee” I slowed down, dropped my sunglasses from my forehead, and glared out the window. It did the trick, they dropped the stones, held their hands in the air, and shouted “Not me boss!” I love these sunglasses, they’re very intimidating, which can be useful at times. Though, I’ve learnt to hide them at roadblocks. More than one police officer has tried to relieve me of them.

Tuesday 24th July
Karonga – Livingstonia
Bought 3 months car insurance in town. The price was the same for 3 months as for 1! I’ll be coming back again after Mozambique, so it makes sense.
Got fuel and other provisions, but there wasn’t any meat in the supermarket. I found a roadside butchery, and asked for 1 kg of rump.
“OK, but it’s MK200 a kg”
“Fine, we’ll have 2 kg’s then”
“But it’s MK200 a kg”
“Yea, you’ve just told me, 2 kg’s please”
The guy couldn’t believe we could afford 2 kg’s of meat, and we had to put the money infront of him before he would proceeded to cut our meat from the carcass. It was covered in flies, but looked half decent. Should be ok if well cooked!
Road south is under construction. Murray Roberts the South African builders have themselves a nice little contract here! The service road is pretty good, but it does criss-cross the new road at strange places. We had to do a bit of back tracking when we ran into dead ends.
The track up to Livingstonia was quite something. Twenty hairpin bends. Excuse the pun but it was a “hairy” experience in places. Some of the turns were very tight, and Eddie had to do a bit of shunting backwards and forwards to get his 110 around the corners. I was a bit more fortunate in a short wheelbase. A few of the turns are numbered, but when you see the first sign, reading “bend 6” you think, “which way have they numbered these things, did they start from the top or bottom? How many are there? And how many more do I have to go?”

Took a few photos, but the vegetation spoils that “cliff-hanging” feeling.
Camped at a nice site just outside Livingstonia. They’ve got hot showers, and best of all a “Loo with a view” A long drop toilet with a superb outlook over the Nyika plateau.
Took a stroll to the nearby waterfalls before setting about supper. Decided to stew the beef we’d bought. It turned out to be tough as leather, even after 5 hours cooking. As a result my “Lusaka Filling” came adrift. Still, no pain yet! Arranged a guide to take us up the nearby mountain in the morning.

Wednesday 25th July
Livingstonia
Set off for the mountain at 8 o’clock. Interesting to walk through the villages. There’s lots of kasava spread out on racks. They dry it in the sun. Looks a bit like chalk, haven’t tried it yet, must give it a go.
Our guide, Theodore is a nice guy, speaks good English. He’s very keen to tell me about their way of life, and some local history.
It took us 2 ½ hours to the summit, which Theodore said was very good going. It normally takes 4-5 hours. He was climbing in flip flops! I couldn’t keep up with him. He climbs in a springing action, almost catapulting himself up each step. Even on the very steep bits he was never out of breath, but he does do this climb 3-4 times a week. He told me he can do the climb from the lakeshore to the camp in half an hour. It took me nearly 1 hour to drive up the hairpin road. He obviously cuts the corners and takes the direct route, but it’s still quite some doing, and having seen him in action I don’t doubt him.
No view from the top, as the mist had set in.
Eddie and Cecile seemed in a hurry to get back, so Theodore and I left them to it and wandered through the villages, chatting to the locals, and just generally having a good laugh.
Theodore took me to Manchewe Falls. Quite a sight, you can walk into a large cave behind the falls, which apparently was a hiding place during the slave trading times.
This is one place I’d highly recommend, the camp is very nice, owned by an English architect. Come here, and get Theodre to take you up the mountain.

Thursday 26th July
Livingstonia – Mzuzu
Looked around the “Stone House” museum in Livingstonia. Bit chaotic, things badly labeled, and poorly maintained. Picked up a hitch hiker, Jaear, and Israeli guy. It appears we’ve been to a lot of the same places, Dahab, Petra even the Baro Hotel in Addis Abeba
Dropped Jaear at a backpackers and went to find an E-Mail café. It was futile, so slow. Resorted to a quick phone call back home to let them know I was still alive and well.
Did a quick shop, and camped at a lodge on the outskirts on Mzuzu.

Friday 27th July
Mzuzu – Kasungu
As we headed south I realized that we were very close to the Zambian/Malawi border. I asked at a roadblock in Jenda if there was a Zambian border post nearby.
“Sure” they said “it’s only 10 km’s down that road”
Great I thought, now I can get the carnet cleared.
Left Eddie and Cecile and headed off towards Zambia again. Ten km’s crap it was 40. But I did succeed in convincing the Zambian customs to stamp my carnet. Don’t think he’d ever seen one before, and I had to show him how to fill it out. I tore off his slip, and watched as he filled it under “B” (Bin) Still I don’t give a toss, as long as I’ve got my counterfoil stamped and signed.
Took me an hour to get back to Eddie and Cecile. Eddie wasn’t too chuffed, but then again he wasn’t facing repossession of his house was he?
My little recce meant we hadn’t made too much progress. The only place we could find to camp was the carpark of a motel in Kasungu. Turned out to be a Truck stop/Brothel, but it was cheap.

Saturday 28th July
Kasungu –Lilongwe – Salima - Mangochi
Left Motel early after a sleepless night.
Bought more charcoal on the roadside. Another thing I’ve noticed is a smoked mouse! It’s a local delicacy apparently; think I’ll give them a miss.
The road to Salima was flanked by woven baskets and wicker chairs. Some really beautiful craft work, if only I had more room! It’s probably just as well that I don’t. However I couldn’t resist the wooden “Maggie” I spotted on the road to Mangochi. I’d just turned into a by-pass when I saw what appeared to be my Landie, but in wood. The attention to detail was amazing, right down to the drip rails around the roof, sand ladders, spot lights, jerry cans. I had to have one!
Camped at Palm Beach resort just north of Mangochi. “The” camping spot to date. I drove Maggie onto the beach, and parked up beneath two huge coconut trees. (see photos) Chatted to a basket weaver, George-Henry. And commissioned a small job from him.

Sunday 29th July
Mangochi (Palm Beach Resort)
Swam, Snoozed in the Hammock, and read my book.
Took a walk into town, and was joined by George-Henry. He took me around his village where I sampled some of the local “hooch” (Kachaacu). It’s made from ground maize and sugar. I expected it to be rough as a “badgers a**e” It turned out to be surprisingly smooth. Next we shared a bucket of “Chimbuku” the African beer also made from maize. All this before midday!
The walking and alcohol had taken effect on me and I returned to the beach for a snooze.

Monday 30th July
Mangochi – Mandimba – Cuamba(ish)
Fuelled up in Mangochi before heading over the mountains to Mozambique. Road wasn’t pretty, and I was taking it steady when I was hooted by a bakkie. I pulled over to watch a nun tear past me! “Must be some serious sinning going on in Mozambique” I thought.
Border crossing into Moz was surprisingly easy. The customs officials even went outside to our cars to fill in the basics for our TIP’s while we completed the immigration forms. I think the recent arrest of 300 police officers on corruption charges may have something to do with it!
We’d wanted to go to Pemba via Lichenza, but again were told the road from Lichenza to Marrupa was impassable due to washed away bridges. We decided to go to Marrupa via Cuamba instead.
The first 50/60km’s was good, then we saw the graders. I’ve come to learn that the sighting of Graders generally means one of two things; either the road is about to improve dramatically, or it deteriorates beyond the point of being called a road. Unfortunately it was there latter this time.
Pulled off the road and wild camped. The place looks well used as a night stop, so we weren’t particularly worried about landmines.